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Routes in Persepolis

Zendebad S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Ray Ellington, 2007
Page Views: 89 total, 1/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 16, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Description

Zendebad is currently the main attraction at Persepolis, climbing a slightly overhanging wall left of an aesthetic arete. The climbing here is downright weird, with powerful, dynamic moves between heinous slopers and the occasional knob. The business is quite bouldery, typical of the sloper problems one might find at a climbing gym. Fortunately the rock here is ultra-grippy, but do yourself a favor and save this one for a cold day anyway.

Begin with one easy move and a few hard ones to gain two good rails near the arete. Work back left to the "dong hold", clip the 2nd bolt, and lunge between slopers to the obvious horizontal break. Move left, make a big reach, then head back right toward the arete. Make one more big move to reach the obvious pocket. Follow more slopey pockets & disappointing pinches as the pump builds. At the last bolt things finally ease up. Move out right of the arete to the anchor.

Location

The first route encountered from the approach, immediately left of a faint arete.

Protection

~7 Bolts, 2BA. Stick clip highly recommended.

Photos

Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
Allegedly Lynn Hill thought this was "13b for short people". I thought it was harder than any of the other "13a" routes I tried at the Red. The crux move is a big reach from an undercling that requires your entire wingspan. If you can't make that reach (I couldn't at 5'7"), this move will be very hard. Nov 16, 2009