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Captain Blonde Sinks The Ship
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.8 from 137
votes
Routes in The Boneyard
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Abby Gabby Goo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Armed Insurrection S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bangers and Mash S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Captain Blonde Sinks The Ship S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cindarella S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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First Fast Draw, The T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Flavor of the Week: McMoose Knuckle S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Flying Serpents S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Glide S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gorilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Gym Jones Approved S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Haggis, Neeps and Taties S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hematopoiesis S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hijacked Project S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hoosierheights.com S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hot Fudge Sunday S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Last Slow Draw, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Lucy Goosey S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lula Mae T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Oink! Oink! T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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One-Armed Bandit S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Petey's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Renegade T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Son of a Wanted Man T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Stealing Melinda S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Surfing the Whale's Back S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sweet Tater S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tanduay Time S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Tao Bato S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Trouble in Paradise S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unknown Road S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Warrior's Path, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Winona T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Sport, 75 ft (23 m) |
| FA: | Craig Luebben, 2006 |
| Page Views: | 2,715 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Nov 16, 2009 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, DrRockso RRG, Billy Simek |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Land Owned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve
Details
Officially known as Muir Valley Nature Preserve, Muir Valley is one of Red River Gorge's crown jewels. Originally the area was privately owned by Rick and Liz Weber, but in March 2015 the Webers gifted the land to the non-profit Friends of Muir Valley (FOMV), a 501(c)3 organization. FOMV is now 100% responsible for the ownership, in addition to funding and up-keeping the property.
The valley is home to more than 30 separate climbing walls, all open to climbers at no charge, a $10 fee is charged per car for parking to offset maintenance costs.
Some important rules must be followed to ensure future access and enjoyment by all. A complete list can be found at muirvalley.org/tabs/#pills-1 , but the most important are listed below:
The valley is home to more than 30 separate climbing walls, all open to climbers at no charge, a $10 fee is charged per car for parking to offset maintenance costs.
Some important rules must be followed to ensure future access and enjoyment by all. A complete list can be found at muirvalley.org/tabs/#pills-1 , but the most important are listed below:
- All climbers must fill out a legal release form before climbing. muirvalley.org/waiver/ ;
- The parking lot described in the directions below is the only permitted parking. Do not park on private drives.
- No dogs are allowed in Muir Valley (nor left in your car in the parking lot.)
- No hammocks are allowed to be hung/used in Muir Valley.
Description
One of the best lines at The Boneyard, Capt Blonde climbs a nice line of overhanging jugs & pockets. This route makes for a good warmup, but its harder than it looks, with big pumpy moves. One of the steeper 5.11s around, this route will keep you on your toes.
Begin with easy moves up the left side of the arete. Around the 3rd bolt, veer left towards the steep wave (the 5.9 breaks right here). Pumpy moves between rounded ledges lead up & up. Head right, around the subtle arete, when the angle kicks back.
Begin with easy moves up the left side of the arete. Around the 3rd bolt, veer left towards the steep wave (the 5.9 breaks right here). Pumpy moves between rounded ledges lead up & up. Head right, around the subtle arete, when the angle kicks back.
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