Captain Blonde Sinks The Ship
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Type: | Sport, 75 ft (23 m) |
FA: | Craig Luebben, 2006 |
Page Views: | 2,715 total · 18/month |
Shared By: | Monomaniac on Nov 16, 2009 |
Admins: | Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, DrRockso RRG, Billy Simek |
Officially known as Muir Valley Nature Preserve, Muir Valley is one of Red River Gorge's crown jewels. Originally the area was privately owned by Rick and Liz Weber, but in March 2015 the Webers gifted the land to the non-profit Friends of Muir Valley (FOMV), a 501(c)3 organization. FOMV is now 100% responsible for the ownership, in addition to funding and up-keeping the property.
The valley is home to more than 30 separate climbing walls, all open to climbers at no charge, a $10 fee is charged per car for parking to offset maintenance costs.
Some important rules must be followed to ensure future access and enjoyment by all. A complete list can be found at muirvalley.org/tabs/#pills-1 , but the most important are listed below:
The valley is home to more than 30 separate climbing walls, all open to climbers at no charge, a $10 fee is charged per car for parking to offset maintenance costs.
Some important rules must be followed to ensure future access and enjoyment by all. A complete list can be found at muirvalley.org/tabs/#pills-1 , but the most important are listed below:
- All climbers must fill out a legal release form before climbing. muirvalley.org/waiver/ ;
- The parking lot described in the directions below is the only permitted parking. Do not park on private drives.
- No dogs are allowed in Muir Valley (nor left in your car in the parking lot.)
- No hammocks are allowed to be hung/used in Muir Valley.
Description
One of the best lines at The Boneyard, Capt Blonde climbs a nice line of overhanging jugs & pockets. This route makes for a good warmup, but its harder than it looks, with big pumpy moves. One of the steeper 5.11s around, this route will keep you on your toes.
Begin with easy moves up the left side of the arete. Around the 3rd bolt, veer left towards the steep wave (the 5.9 breaks right here). Pumpy moves between rounded ledges lead up & up. Head right, around the subtle arete, when the angle kicks back.
Begin with easy moves up the left side of the arete. Around the 3rd bolt, veer left towards the steep wave (the 5.9 breaks right here). Pumpy moves between rounded ledges lead up & up. Head right, around the subtle arete, when the angle kicks back.
2 Comments