Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Boneyard

Abby Gabby Goo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Armed Insurrection S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bangers and Mash S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Captain Blonde Sinks The Ship S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cindarella S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
First Fast Draw, The T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flavor of the Week: McMoose Knuckle S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying Serpents S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Glide S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gym Jones Approved S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Haggis, Neeps and Taties S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hematopoiesis S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hijacked Project S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hoosierheights.com S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Last Slow Draw, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lucy Goosey S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lula Mae T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Oink! Oink! T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One-Armed Bandit S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Renegade T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Son of a Wanted Man T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stealing Melinda S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surfing the Whale's Back S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sweet Tater S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tanduay Time S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tao Bato S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Trouble in Paradise S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown Road S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Warrior's Path, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Winona T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Craig Luebben, 2006
Page Views: 1,370 total · 14/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 16, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


73 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

One of the best lines at The Boneyard, Capt Blonde climbs a nice line of overhanging jugs & pockets. This route makes for a good warmup, but its harder than it looks, with big pumpy moves. One of the steeper 5.11s around, this route will keep you on your toes.

Begin with easy moves up the left side of the arete. Around the 3rd bolt, veer left towards the steep wave (the 5.9 breaks right here). Pumpy moves between rounded ledges lead up & up. Head right, around the subtle arete, when the angle kicks back.

Location

The center of The Boneyard features a narrow cirque of steeply overhanging, pocketed rock. Capt Blonde is the right-most line in the cirque, and shares teh first 3 bolts with a 5.9 that exits the cirque to the right when things get steep.

Protection

~10 bolts, 2BA.

Photos

Jeff Sssss
Chicago, IL
Jeff Sssss   Chicago, IL
By rrg standards, this is a bit runout at the crux (4th bolt I think?) with the possibility of hitting a large ledge on a fall. May 31, 2016
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
stick clip the second bolt and skip the first. Oct 25, 2010