Mountain Project Logo

Routes in South Whizz Dome

Blackout (direct start) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A0 X
Body Count S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Body and Soul T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Shadow Warriors S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad
FA: John Bachar
Page Views: 1,161 total, 12/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Nov 16, 2009
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Body and Soul is characterized by an impressive knobby bulge above a smooth brown and white mottled wall. The route is a major achievement for it's era and even today. Done prior to and overshadowed by "Bachar-Yerian" and in the style of the day, B&S is another example of John's physical abilities and mindset.

The route has yet to be led ground up and in true redpoint style. Steve Schneider, according to John, made the second ascent after taking big falls onto the pro below the crux bulge and lowered off yo-yo style. It is unclear how many ascents should be documented. When attempted even with these tactics, the route is quite formidable and dangerous! It's just one of those climbs you get obsessed about and don't spend too much time messing around on.


Location

Locate a shallow knobby flake below 2 old bolts. As you climb past the bolts, you gotta wonder why he didn't place them higher...Execute a devious and difficult 11+ sequence on slopey knobs and arrive at the diagonal crack. Unload some cams with long runners and try to relax...your body and your soul. The bulge itself is powerful and hard to decifer and once you commit...You're on! The fall is not that great but with the right belayer, you should avoid injury. Once above the bulge the lack of good pro and funky crystals will keep your attention! Set a funky belay because the route angles off quite a bit, or tackle the headwall direct.

Protection

wired nuts, .5-3 inch cams and runners

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments