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Routes in The Long Wall

Chewy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fifty Fifty S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flight Path S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flirting with E S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Going Ballistic S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Maximum Overdrive S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Menace Alert S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Minimum Overdrive S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
No Way, Jose' S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
On the Porch S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Quarryman's Hands S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ragged Reaction S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rocky Top Hilton S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Seven Minutes of Heaven S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Six Dollars S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spice S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stone Cold Dixie S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Under the Milky Way S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Doug Cosby 1991
Page Views: 1,286 total · 13/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Nov 15, 2009 with updates
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Start on the large ledge about 10 feet to the left of the Under the Milky Way arete. Climb up and right aiming for the first bolt. From here either climb straight up or head out to the right a bit and traverse back left using very small but positive crimps, aiming for a nice horizontal in the middle of the face. Continue to climb straight up to reach the last bolt using very positive holds, thin and technical but much easier than the previous terrain. Approaching the last bolt starts to get harder again. Very positive small holds, tricky footwork. After clipping the last bolt, the climb is not over, the holds are no longer positive and the shuts are very difficult to clip unless you climb all the way up to grab the ledge above them. If you clip the shuts with draws already hung, it is much easier and it eliminates a difficult move (possibly the crux).

Location

Bolted line on clean white face just to the left of the Under the Milky Way arete.

Protection

6 bolts, shuts.

Photos

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bryan brown
the 'ham, nc
bryan brown   the 'ham, nc
This route was titled 'Six Dollars' in iterations of the guidebook before the 2013 two-volume version, authored by Mike Williams. Nov 11, 2015