PRINT: Rock Climb Face Over Crack, Oahu

Face Over Crack

5.10b/c, Trad,

Avg: 2.4 from 11 votes
FA: unknown
Hawaii > Oahu > Mokule'ia Wall

Access Issue: Electronic Waver Details

As of January 25, 2015, the Moke has been reopened after a lengthy challenge in obtaining a permit to climb at this area . All climbers are required to sign an electronic waver before climbing at the Moke. You can find the waver here:

hiclimb.org/join.php

Access at this area is fragile. The State requires that climbers exercise good stewardship in order for our access to remain.

Please note the following rules:

- Dogs and alcoholic beverages are prohibited by law at the Moke, on the approach, and in the parking lot.
- No fires
- Do not deface the cliff
- No amplified music

In addition, please show the state we are good stewards of the land by following the following guidelines:

- Treat other users with respect
- Help clean up chalk and tick marks
- Identify and report safety hazards
- Stay on established trails
- Dispose of human waste appropriately and pack out toilet paper
- Keep a low profile by minimizing noise
- Pack out all gear, rubbish, and practice leave no trace ethics

Description

This offwidth/ chimney route is about 20 feet to the right of Dr. Hook. It is the last route before you have to walk around the corner. Crank the wide hands crack down low, continue on easy terrain (4th class), and then fire the chimney crack up higher (2 bolts). The crux is protected by bolts.

Protection

Mixed trad (two bolts). Bring singles .3 - 3 Camalot, with two #3s for the lower section.

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Face Over Crack

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Ben Fox
Colorado

Did this today in 2 pitches. Highly recommend 2 pitches if you're leading as the rope drag get's nasty on P2. Climb P1, build anchors in the obvious gully (can just sling an obvious chockstone and back it up), then send P2 with minimal drag, no alpine draws needed. Can set a TR or rap it with a single 60m rope. Fun, great combo of jams + face moves. Single rack to #3 is perfect if you do it in 2 pitches. If you want to sew it up or do it in 1 pitch, recommend doubles in #.5-#2. Or leave the doubles at home and take a set of nuts. Rock is actually pretty solid in all your placements, so you can trust them, but as always it depends on how confident you are in the grade. P2 has 2 bolts at clutch locations. If you are in doubt, pump through fast and clip the bolt. If you send this on lead, can always set a top rope and take a few laps (not that I did that lol). Totally worth it, and not the type of climbing you get often in Hawaii. It's a fun change from stemmy face climbing. Cheers. Mar 25, 2019