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Routes in 4X4

"Unnamed 5.11+" in Bloom Guide T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
4 x 4 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
4x20 T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Carbondale Short Bus T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a R
Collision Course T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Country T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crankcase T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Dashboard Jesus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Destination Paris T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hookers 'n Blow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hydraulic Pump T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Jimmy's Three Inch Weenie T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Knobby Tires T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lift Kit T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Linkage T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Long Bandito route - hands into wide corner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Marshmallow Safari T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Minute Lube T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Monster Truck T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Salt-Lake Special T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Take 10 T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Take 5 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Town T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tranny Trouble T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown 21 - big hands flare T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.12 Large Lichen Corner T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unknown OW T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unnamed 5.10 (route 34) - R of tunnel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10 - Left of Variety Pack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10- w/ LF corner capped by roof T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed 5.11 (36) - RF corner through 2 roofs T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.11 (38) - twin crack start T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unnamed 5.11 R of Variety Pack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.11 w/ 2 bolt start T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Variety Pack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
scout T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: K3
Page Views: 1,446 total, 15/month
Shared By: Karl kelley on Nov 14, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Starts with face climbing over 3 bolts, continue up a right-facing corner that starts with off-fingers and goes through the sizes up to steep cupped hands.

Location

Approach by driving towards the Optimater Wall, but park at a small pull-out on the left. Follow an obvious flute to the cliff bottom and walk right until you see the plaque.

Protection

Quick draws, .75 Camalots through 3 Camalots.
2 ring hanger anchors

Photos

Jamie Sarafan
Colorado
Jamie Sarafan   Colorado
More specific gear (BD Camelot c4s) for those who are interested:
- 3 draws for bolted start
- 1 #.5
- 3 #.75
- 4 or 5 #1
- 5 or 6 #2
- 1 #3
I believe my partner and I accidentally broke a good chunk, but not all, of the initial foot ledge in question this last weekend (3/18/2017). When I climbed it after it broke, I managed to largely avoid the foot ledge in fear of doing more damage (in retrospect perhaps I should have cleaned it up for y'all) and it did not feel significantly harder because you have other crimps/ foot holds slightly higher and to the left of it that are quite solid - I would say it's still a 5.11. Super fun climb! Mar 20, 2017
Lyle Harte
Denver
 
Lyle Harte   Denver
 
My fat ass partner pulled several toaster sized blocks off by the second bolt. The rest of the climb is like a more varied incredible hand crack. Oct 31, 2016
DennisL
Bishop, CA
 
DennisL   Bishop, CA
 
Fun, varied route! Still a little loose (one pretty dangerous flake on the left wall). Oct 20, 2014
Drew Thayer
Denver, CO
Drew Thayer   Denver, CO
Totally worth the walk! This will still be 5.11 when that foot breaks. Thanks to whoever spotted the line and took the initiative to bolt the start. Apr 6, 2013
Jeff Scheuerell
  5.11-
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.11-
I loved this route. Great climbing and well protected. Was nice to have well placed bolts before the crack. I agree with Steven though, the few loose sections drop the quality down a notch and the loose foothold, although still there, has a short life span. I wish I had tried it on tr without using the foothold to see how hard it's gonna be. Don't hesitate to get on this route. Nov 8, 2012
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.11
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.11
This route is pretty sweet but not quite a classic for two reasons. One, its a little loose and dirty but that would get better with more traffic. The second and bigger reason is that a key foot hold for starting the route and getting to the 2nd bolt is fractured and going to break off someday soon. I think this would make the route slightly harder, maybe 11+. May 10, 2010