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Routes in Critic's Choice

(Brutus of) Wyde Choice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Acronymph T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
BBC from Cleveland T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Barley Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Belly Full of Bad Berries T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Break a Leg T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bunny Slope T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Critic's Choice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Critical Mass T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cult Classic T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ed's World T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fist of Fury T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fisticuffs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hitch Hiker's Thumb, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0
Just Because T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Knees without honor T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Life.... T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Bad News T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Mr. Critical T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
New Life or Second Life T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ruby Flame T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sabrina T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Second Choice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sgt. Fish Scale T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Short and Stout T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Thin and Tipsy T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Uncut T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Wide Corner Route T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wrench Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Kris Lucic
Page Views: 991 total · 9/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Nov 13, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

BBC from Cleveland is a worthy crack up at the Critic's Choice.

Scramble up 15' of 5.easy choss. Enter a 10' squeeze that protects well with hand sized cams. Step onto the top of the pillar, breathe a second, then enter the thin hands section before switching cracks to the right and going for the anchors.

Location

Critic's choice wall, between critic's choice and second choice. Plaqued.

Protection

Cams, 3-4 each, 1.5 inches to 3.5 inches (green to blue camalots.)

Photos

slim    
if i remember correctly, Kris Lucic put this route up, maybe fall of 08 or spring of 09. i'm not even gonna tell you what BBC stands for... Nov 13, 2009
EAS Fett
Park City, UT
EAS Fett   Park City, UT
British Butter Cup? Nov 14, 2009
caughtinside
Oakland CA
  5.10+
caughtinside   Oakland CA
  5.10+
heh. We couldn't remember the name several times when we were hanging out, it was alternatively referred to as the Cleveland Steamer and BBQed Cleveland.

Pretty sandy when we did it, had to trundle the flagstone just before the anchor, that thing was waiting to kill someone. Nov 16, 2009
Hard 10, but .10 nonetheless. Fun and worthwhile climb with nearly all crack sizes in one pitch. Apr 12, 2010
blue ribbon
Indian Creek, UT
blue ribbon   Indian Creek, UT
Somebody was recently up at Critics Choice and defaced this plaque. It now reads 5.11. They also defaced several other plaques and added many unnecessary protection bolts to new and previously established routes. Dec 3, 2015

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