The easiest start is on the right side of the face. Traverse left under the arching overhang past the first overhanging crack (which is another route, Old Spice 5.9), ascend a crack through a small and easy overhang (5.7), continue up a slab and finish on a steep headwall (5.7) protected by a nut (and a marginal cam) in a thin flaring crack. To descend, rappel the route or walk left (west) and downclimb a short (10') class 4 section at the end of the rock.Old Yeller is another variation going further around the end instead of up the crack, it is 5.7 as well.
Rock just uphill from War Party and The Chief, and below Hummingbird Spire. a.k.a. the third rock up from shute-mills main wall that Mystery Hole is on. (Rock at 38.651467, -122.618525)P.S. There is also a nice afternoon shade spot near here