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Routes in The Far Side

18NY (aka The Chickens are Breastless) T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
5.8 TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
At Last S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Atlas S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Atlas Shrugged S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Baby Atlas (aka The Chickens are Restless) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Better Eat Your Wheaties T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Bushy Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cereal Killer S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chief, The S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Death to the Right T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Far Out S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Far Side Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Far aka Let's Climb Naked S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Feelin' Your Oats T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Forrester's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hummingbird Spire, N. Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Initiation Rite T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jardinero S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Koka T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kola S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Livin' on a Prayer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mystery Hole S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Near Side Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
New Tradition S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Spice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Old Tradition T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pile, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Planet of the Grapes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Rite of Passage T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Saviour Heart T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Separation Anxiety S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shute-Mills Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Something Good S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Step To The Left T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Synchronicity S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tradfest T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
War Party S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 761 total, 8/month
Shared By: Floyd Hayes on Nov 12, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The easiest start is on the right side of the face. Traverse left under the arching overhang past the first overhanging crack (which is another route, Old Spice 5.9), ascend a crack through a small and easy overhang (5.6), continue up a slab and finish on a steep headwall (5.7) protected by a nut (and a marginal cam) in a thin flaring crack. To descend, rappel the route or walk left (west) and downclimb a short (10') class 4 section at the end of the rock.

Location

Rock just uphill from War Party and The Chief, and below Hummingbird Spire.

Protection

Cams and nuts up to 2". At the top there is an unnecessary double-bolt anchor with quick links for rappelling (good cracks for gear).

Photos

Pat Hastings
Fort Collins, CO
  5.7
Pat Hastings   Fort Collins, CO
  5.7
By St. Helena standards, I thought there were plenty of places for good protection on this route. A very small cam (I used an .2 X4) was useful in the middle of the route. May 25, 2014
Floyd Hayes  
 
The face to the left can be top-roped; the lower section is about 5.9 and the upper section is about 5.8. The arete at the far left can also be top-roped at about 5.10a. Beware of some loose blocks in the middle of both climbs. May 23, 2011
Floyd Hayes  
 
This climb is listed as an unnamed 5.8 top rope in Tresa Black's "Rock Climbing the San Francisco Bay Area" and Chris Summit's "Wine Country Rocks," but it is a well protected trad climb and I think it's easier than 5.8. However, a direct start on the unprotected face may well be 5.8. Nov 12, 2009