Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,695 total · 10/month
Shared By: Floyd Hayes on Nov 12, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

The easiest start is on the right side of the face. Traverse left under the arching overhang past the first overhanging crack (which is another route, Old Spice 5.9), ascend a crack through a small and easy overhang (5.7), continue up a slab and finish on a steep headwall (5.7) protected by a nut (and a marginal cam) in a thin flaring crack. To descend, rappel the route or walk left (west) and downclimb a short (10') class 4 section at the end of the rock.Old Yeller is another variation going further around the end instead of up the crack, it is 5.7 as well.

Location Suggest change

Rock just uphill from War Party and The Chief, and below Hummingbird Spire. a.k.a. the third rock up from shute-mills main wall that Mystery Hole is on. (Rock at 38.651467, -122.618525)P.S. There is also a nice afternoon shade spot near here

Protection Suggest change

Cams and nuts up to 2". At the top there is an unnecessary double-bolt anchor with quick links for rappelling (good cracks for gear).