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Chug A Lug

5.8, Trad, 100 ft,  Avg: 2.5 from 42 votes
FA: unknown
Arizona > Central Arizona > *Phoenix Areas > Pinnacle Peak > Pinnacle Peak

Description

One of the best handcrack trainers in Phoenix (albeit a short one).
Start is a splitter that leans slightly right and varies from tight hands to big hands (but often pinches down or changes size quickly - so hand size does not really affect the rating). 40'
Can continue for a 'second' pitch by stepping right from the gully on top to another nice vertical crack. 50'

Location

Right-angling handcrack (mostly vertical). Start off large slanting boulder on the east side between the north & south peaks. (near base of second rappel from the top).
Obvious chimney to its left and a gully to the right.
Its possible to squirm off right after the first 35' or continue up 'second pitch' to Notch area; From Notch, walk to climbers right and down to rappel anchors in the gully (single rope rap).

Protection

trad rack up to a #3 camalot

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Placing a #2 on chug a lug
[Hide Photo] Placing a #2 on chug a lug
Chug a Lug is in the center.
[Hide Photo] Chug a Lug is in the center.
Chug a lug
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Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tim Heid
AZ
  5.9-
[Hide Comment] This route would be killer if only it was longer. Great jams all the way up, but it was over too soon. Jan 17, 2010
Tradiban
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Tricky to step into the crack for the second pitch. Jan 23, 2013
Marylee Harrer
Bozeman, Mt
[Hide Comment] The first ascent was by Chauncey (Chuck) Parker in the 70's. I followed him up it soon after. Jan 31, 2014
Anthony Miklas
Phoenix , Arizona
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Great route, but wish it was longer. Good hand crack for beginner crack climbers to learn on. Nov 7, 2015
Shelby Kincaid
Phoenix, AZ
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] I disagree with Anthony's opinion that this is a good beginner crack. Unless you have tiny hands, the first 8 ft or so are tricky and insecure. What makes it interesting is that it flares and changes size with every move. I used everything from arm bars to fist jams and tight hand jams. The whole crack protects well, and the walk-off is super mellow. I think 5.8+ is an appropriate rating for the area (for those new to the area, Pinnacle and McDowells are very sandbagged). Jan 28, 2019
TravKlein
Tempe, AZ
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Shelby I think what you just defined is what makes this the perfect beginner crack. It’s the first one I cranked on when learning how to jam. A toprope is easy to set up if you don’t want to lead it but it’s certainly safe and protectable if you want to. Plus it’s only 35 feet so you can run laps. I’m thankful I had access to it years ago when learning. Just my 2 cents Jan 28, 2019
Shelby Kincaid
Phoenix, AZ
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] I get what you're saying Travis. My definition of a beginner crack is something much easier than an old school 5.8. My first cracks were fairly low angle, with pretty bomber hands the whole way. However, if you're a valley local and just want something nearby to run laps on, this might be the best option for a beginner. So I agree with you about that. Feb 7, 2019