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Routes in Cottonwood Creek (Sherman to Cuba Gulch)

Cotton Picker WI3 M4
Havana Nights WI5-
Open Casket / Closed Casket WI5- M4-
SeƱor Presidente WI5
Sherman Climb WI4
Type: Mixed, Ice, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,452 total, 15/month
Shared By: Scott Krankkala on Nov 12, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This climb seems to form consistently and typically forms 3+ pitches.

P1: follow the low angle slab to the ledge belay from a the fixed webbing on a tree 20 feet up and right.

P2: from the tree, move left and climb up to the next shelf. Belay from a tree with fixed webbing about 10 feet up and right.

P3: slog through the snow for about 70 feet to the base of the third pitch. Climb the third pitch, and either find a tree or v-thread to rappel to the belays to reach the bottom.

Note: double 60m ropes are required for the rappel beta.

Rack: rock pro and screws.

Location

Approach:
Drive 1.3 miles past the seasonal closure to a pullout on the left side of the road. From here, look directly left and see the ice. Cross the stream and hike up the gully to the base.

Protection

Bring a good set of screws with stubbys and some small rock pro (wires and TCUs).

Photos

jmeizis
Colorado Springs, CO
  WI3 M4 PG13
jmeizis   Colorado Springs, CO
  WI3 M4 PG13
Climbed this to the summit with a client over three days. First day was a late start on the ice to a small bivy on the right before the snow gully turns. The next day was some snow and easier (M4ish) climbing to the left of where the snow ends at a headwall. I imagine in late winter or in a wetter winter there may be a another pitch of ice. As it was, we pulled some mixed shenanigans and traversed back into the gully. From there, we climbed about 1000' of steepish snow and then some easy mixed to another nice bivy just above 12,800 (more spacious one at 12,100'). The last has couple of hundred feet has some fun snow ridge, a little rock scrambling, and some great views. Overall, it was about 3000' of climbing with at least half of it worth bringing the rope for. The climbing was WI3 M4 50 degree snow. Great as an alpine route. We took packs for the fun of bivvying on the route, but a fast party should be capable of doing it in a day in good conditions. A less fast party could probably get to the spacious bivy at 12,100. If anyone has any FA info or knowledge of whether it's been done to the top, I'd love to hear about it.

Apr 14, 2015