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Routes in (9) Above the Waves

BA Insanity T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cat's Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climax T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cold Sushi T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cunning Linguist T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dangerous Games T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Doublethink T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fillet Show T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gold Club T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gold Member T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Golden Shower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goldline T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Happy Endings T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lap Dance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Let's Do The Trad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Love You Long Time TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ocean's Eleven T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Orange Juice S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pearl Necklace T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Psycho Killer T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rastafarian Seabirds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snake Alley T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tanz en Den Mai S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tofu Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wet and Hairy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 56 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 12, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball

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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

The grade will depend on the length of one's arms and skill with roofs, as the crux is pulling over a 3' roof on this route, with gear on a long sling below (make sure it is solid). The crux can be protected additionally by the horizontal over the lip, where budding 5.9 leaders will get a kick out of bomber heel-hooks and a mantle. Continue up the right of two cracks (the left being Gold Member) to the top where the two cracks merge and then end. From there, traverse leftward over exposed space, protecting with a solid, finger-sized cam in a horizontal, to reach a set of fixed anchors with chain.

Location

This is the right-most route on the 'Gold Wall' group, a group of climbs forming the left (South) vertical horizon if you look in that direction from the central area of the Golden Valley.
Approach by scrambling up on a series of 1-meter-tall blocks onto a large ledge.
Gold Member starts off of the far right edge of this ledge and climbs up to the roof (3 meters), and out on the right-most line of cracks up to a fixed anchor reached via a protected by airy traverse up top.

Protection

Gear to 3.5" cams
Titanium anchors (2016)

Photos

Golden Hiroshi - continue Gold Club to Golddigger bolts at the top May 8, 2014
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.8
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.8
Can be continued to the top of the wall (5.8) Feb 16, 2014