Avg: 2 from 3 votes
Routes in (9) Above the Waves
|BA Insanity T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Cat's Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Climax T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Cold Sushi T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Cunning Linguist T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Dangerous Games T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Doublethink T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Fillet Show T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Gold Club T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Gold Member T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Golden Shower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Goldline T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Happy Endings T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Lap Dance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Let's Do The Trad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Love You Long Time TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Ocean's Eleven T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Orange Juice S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Pearl Necklace T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Psycho Killer T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Rastafarian Seabirds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Snake Alley T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Tanz en Den Mai S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Tofu Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Wet and Hairy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Type:||Trad, 40 ft|
|Page Views:||56 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Nov 12, 2009|
Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details
Accelerated corrosion that targets stainless steel bolts (SCC) has caused multiple failures, including both anchor bolts on a route that a climber was being lowered off of. Please read the BOLTS note on the main page. You can also help the cause by visiting the Bivy during your stay and giving QX some reds, whites, or if youre feeling generous, some BLUES!
DescriptionThe grade will depend on the length of one's arms and skill with roofs, as the crux is pulling over a 3' roof on this route, with gear on a long sling below (make sure it is solid). The crux can be protected additionally by the horizontal over the lip, where budding 5.9 leaders will get a kick out of bomber heel-hooks and a mantle. Continue up the right of two cracks (the left being Gold Member) to the top where the two cracks merge and then end. From there, traverse leftward over exposed space, protecting with a solid, finger-sized cam in a horizontal, to reach a set of fixed anchors with chain.
LocationThis is the right-most route on the 'Gold Wall' group, a group of climbs forming the left (South) vertical horizon if you look in that direction from the central area of the Golden Valley.
Approach by scrambling up on a series of 1-meter-tall blocks onto a large ledge.
Gold Member starts off of the far right edge of this ledge and climbs up to the roof (3 meters), and out on the right-most line of cracks up to a fixed anchor reached via a protected by airy traverse up top.