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Routes in (9) Above the Waves

BA Insanity T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cat's Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climax T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cold Sushi T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cunning Linguist T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dangerous Games T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Doublethink T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fillet Show T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gold Club T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gold Member T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Golden Shower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goldline T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Happy Endings T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lap Dance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Let's Do The Trad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Love You Long Time TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ocean's Eleven T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Orange Juice S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pearl Necklace T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Psycho Killer T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rastafarian Seabirds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snake Alley T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tanz en Den Mai S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tofu Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wet and Hairy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown, likely only on TR
Page Views: 40 total, 0/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 11, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball

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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

A reasonably good but short climb typical for this area of the wall. There are 8 consecutive routes, all but one of which are 5.9 to 5.10c, and for all of those, the crux is pulling up over the low initial roof into some reachy, hidden holds.
Place gear below the low roof, crank the crux moves (10b) and cruise up with good gear to the top traverse, an airy but moderate move left to the anchors.

Location

This is the second to the right-most route on the 'Gold Wall' group, a group of climbs forming the left (South) vertical horizon if you look in that direction from the central area of the Golden Valley.
Approach by scrambling up on a series of 1-meter-tall blocks onto a large ledge.
Gold Member starts off of the right edge of this ledge and climbs up to the roof (3 meters), then over it just a few feet left of 'Gold Club' on jugs and cracks. The climb continues up the left-most of the 2 cracks (the right being 'Gold Club') to a horizontal up high, where you traverse left to a shared fixed anchor (bolts and chain) and rap or lower off.

Protection

rack up to 3" and a long sling or two
Titanium anchors (2016)

Photos

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Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
Can be continued to the top of the wall (5.8) Feb 16, 2014