Avg: 2 from 2 votes
Routes in (9) Above the Waves
|BA Insanity T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Cat's Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Climax T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Cold Sushi T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Cunning Linguist T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Dangerous Games T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Doublethink T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Fillet Show T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Gold Club T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Gold Member T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Golden Shower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Goldline T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Happy Endings T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Lap Dance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Let's Do The Trad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Love You Long Time TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Ocean's Eleven T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Orange Juice S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Pearl Necklace T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Psycho Killer T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Rastafarian Seabirds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Snake Alley T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Tanz en Den Mai S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Tofu Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Wet and Hairy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Type:||Trad, 40 ft|
|FA:||unknown, likely only on TR|
|Page Views:||40 total, 0/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Nov 11, 2009|
Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details
Accelerated corrosion that targets stainless steel bolts (SCC) has caused multiple failures, including both anchor bolts on a route that a climber was being lowered off of. Please read the BOLTS note on the main page. You can also help the cause by visiting the Bivy during your stay and giving QX some reds, whites, or if youre feeling generous, some BLUES!
DescriptionA reasonably good but short climb typical for this area of the wall. There are 8 consecutive routes, all but one of which are 5.9 to 5.10c, and for all of those, the crux is pulling up over the low initial roof into some reachy, hidden holds.
Place gear below the low roof, crank the crux moves (10b) and cruise up with good gear to the top traverse, an airy but moderate move left to the anchors.
LocationThis is the second to the right-most route on the 'Gold Wall' group, a group of climbs forming the left (South) vertical horizon if you look in that direction from the central area of the Golden Valley.
Approach by scrambling up on a series of 1-meter-tall blocks onto a large ledge.
Gold Member starts off of the right edge of this ledge and climbs up to the roof (3 meters), then over it just a few feet left of 'Gold Club' on jugs and cracks. The climb continues up the left-most of the 2 cracks (the right being 'Gold Club') to a horizontal up high, where you traverse left to a shared fixed anchor (bolts and chain) and rap or lower off.
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