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Trad, 80 ft,
Avg: 3.8 from 19
FA: Pat McCarthy, Jeff Wenger, Gavin Ferguson, 6/07
> Central Oregon
> Trout Creek
> Main Wall
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure ::: No top access - private land
SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.
Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. The mesa on top of the columns is private ranchland. Please do not top out or approach from above to rappel or set top ropes. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.
Come expecting 40' of beautiful, BD 0.5 splitter to a funky crack switch to the left. (somewhat up to the climber's discretion, I found it easiest to switch when my feet were on the last large edge in the original crack, but others traverse left higher up) Once established in the left crack, enjoy engaging finger locks and face moves to the chains.
This is the prominent rattly finger/ringlock splitter a couple lines right of Bushwhacker.
Rumor has it that metolius cams don't fit as well as BD ones. (oranges are tipped out and reds are over cammed) I was stoked to have 4-5 0.5s, 2 0.75s and Doubles of BD 0 C3-0.3 C4 for the upper crack.