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Gateway

5.11, Trad, 80 ft,  Avg: 3.8 from 19 votes
FA: Pat McCarthy, Jeff Wenger, Gavin Ferguson, 6/07
Oregon > Central Oregon > Trout Creek > Main Wall
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure ::: No top access - private land Details

Description

Come expecting 40' of beautiful, BD 0.5 splitter to a funky crack switch to the left. (somewhat up to the climber's discretion, I found it easiest to switch when my feet were on the last large edge in the original crack, but others traverse left higher up) Once established in the left crack, enjoy engaging finger locks and face moves to the chains.

Location

This is the prominent rattly finger/ringlock splitter a couple lines right of Bushwhacker.

Protection

Rumor has it that metolius cams don't fit as well as BD ones. (oranges are tipped out and reds are over cammed) I was stoked to have 4-5 0.5s, 2 0.75s and Doubles of BD 0 C3-0.3 C4 for the upper crack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Thad almost onsighting.
[Hide Photo] Thad almost onsighting.
Gateway is the obvious splitter, two lines right of the broken rock low on the wall.  It has green lichen on the left side of the crack.
[Hide Photo] Gateway is the obvious splitter, two lines right of the broken rock low on the wall. It has green lichen on the left side of the crack.
SJ onsighting 'Gateway' at Trout Creek
[Hide Photo] SJ onsighting 'Gateway' at Trout Creek

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Alex Shainman
Las Vegas, NV
 
[Hide Comment] Maximum stars for the grade at Trout! Jun 2, 2013
Jon Rhoderick
Redmond, OR
[Hide Comment] There are two options for finishing
You can skirt left to the Steelhead anchor, which gives you a nice TR for that climb, or you can head up and right. Going up is another 15 ft of high quality face climbing protected by a finger sized cam, so make sure you have one left. If you don't have one going left would be a reasonable idea. Jul 19, 2014
[Hide Comment] The best 5.11 at Trout! Jan 9, 2015