Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Jeff Moll, 1995
Page Views: 2,014 total · 18/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 11, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


12 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Private Property Details

Description

Swahili Slang is a bit of an anomaly at The Motherlode, with generally vertical climbing on generally "holdless" stone. This climbs more like a desert face climb, with snaking movement between large features. Some will love the technical, balancy nature of the climbing; others will wonder what happened to all those notorious Red River Gorge jugs. This is a great line for wiley old veterans with good technique, as there are few powerful moves and forearm endurance is irrelevant.

Step off a small rock at the base to a large horizontal hueco. Make a reachy move out right, then one hard crank off a tiny, positive crimp to reach the patina above. Work up to the obvious leaning arete, and figure out how best to utilize it. Awkward moves lead up this feature to a difficult section working up to a narrow ledge of iron extrusions. Work up and left to the high dihedral and an awkward rest. One last tricky little section leads to the anchor.

Location

Halfway between "The Warmup Wall" and "The Madness Cave", on the left end of The Motherlode, is a lonely section of wall in the trees. Near the center of this wall is a rounded, right-leaning arete. Swahili Slang climbs up to, along & beyond the arete. Also, this is the next route right of "Take That, Katie Brown"

Protection

~8 Bolts, 2 BA.

Photos

JoeNY
  5.12b
JoeNY  
  5.12b
This stellar route deserves more traffic. Amazing technical face climb that requires good balance and beta. Taller climber may find it easier at several sections: At 5'7", I had to make a small hop to reach a small ledge below the dihedral and I was fully extended while working the crux moves exiting the dihedral. The crux sequence for me involves a sharp two-finger hold, squeezy hand-foot match, "thumbdercling" and two-finger gaston. Next time when you are at the Lode with forearms completely pumped from the overhanging jug hauls, you should give this route a shot; it offers plenty of trad-climb-like rest positions. Nov 2, 2015