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Routes in Warm-Up Wall

All In S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ben S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Breathe Right S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Injured Reserve S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Laura S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Purdy Mouth S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
So Low S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Swahili Slang S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Take That Katie Brown S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Trust in Jesus S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Jeff Moll, 1995
Page Views: 1,905 total · 18/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 11, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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11 Opinions

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Access Issue: Private Property Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Swahili Slang is a bit of an anomaly at The Motherlode, with generally vertical climbing on generally "holdless" stone. This climbs more like a desert face climb, with snaking movement between large features. Some will love the technical, balancy nature of the climbing; others will wonder what happened to all those notorious Red River Gorge jugs. This is a great line for wiley old veterans with good technique, as there are few powerful moves and forearm endurance is irrelevant.

Step off a small rock at the base to a large horizontal hueco. Make a reachy move out right, then one hard crank off a tiny, positive crimp to reach the patina above. Work up to the obvious leaning arete, and figure out how best to utilize it. Awkward moves lead up this feature to a difficult section working up to a narrow ledge of iron extrusions. Work up and left to the high dihedral and an awkward rest. One last tricky little section leads to the anchor.

Location [Suggest Change]

Halfway between "The Warmup Wall" and "The Madness Cave", on the left end of The Motherlode, is a lonely section of wall in the trees. Near the center of this wall is a rounded, right-leaning arete. Swahili Slang climbs up to, along & beyond the arete. Also, this is the next route right of "Take That, Katie Brown"

Protection [Suggest Change]

~8 Bolts, 2 BA.

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JoeNY
  5.12b
JoeNY  
  5.12b
This stellar route deserves more traffic. Amazing technical face climb that requires good balance and beta. Taller climber may find it easier at several sections: At 5'7", I had to make a small hop to reach a small ledge below the dihedral and I was fully extended while working the crux moves exiting the dihedral. The crux sequence for me involves a sharp two-finger hold, squeezy hand-foot match, "thumbdercling" and two-finger gaston. Next time when you are at the Lode with forearms completely pumped from the overhanging jug hauls, you should give this route a shot; it offers plenty of trad-climb-like rest positions. Nov 2, 2015

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