[Hide Comment] We did this climb years ago as a party of three with two 60m half-ropes. We topped out but could not find the third and last set of anchors. Luckily, we had a very long sling so we slung a sizable piece of rock and also left a well-placed nut behind as the anchor. The first rap took us down to the second set of anchors (did not look all that good even back then). Then we rapped the rest of the way in one go, with a meter or two of rope to spare.

There is certainly some adventure to this climb. Nov 12, 2009

[Hide Comment] did it today,best route on washington. fun climbiing in a great setting. Aug 14, 2010

[Hide Comment] Doubles of hand sized cams allowed me to sew up Pitch 3, but you don't need them. I'm not sure why the book lists this as Grade III - perhaps it factors in the approach and setting. As with all climbs up here, treat all handholds, footholds, trees, and fixed gear with extreme suspicion. Be sure all the ice is already down if trying this route in the spring. Aug 30, 2010

[Hide Comment] As of late July 2011, the sling and nut anchor at top of P3 was getting rather worn and faded. Also the P2 anchor would not be great to rap off unless backed up. Instead we scrambled off, which made for a memorable gardening experience. especially while wearing shorts... Maybe only one loose block just before V-groove.

Good route - wish it was 3 x longer! Oct 2, 2011

[Hide Comment] Could they the same sling and nut we left on top of P3? Amazing if so! If the same, that sling is more than 10 years old and had spent the last 7 or 8 years out in the open; definitely not to be trusted. Oct 2, 2011

[Hide Comment] I remember rapping off a slung boulder at the top of P3 in 2010 - that we slung. Among the sketchier raps I've done. I also remember slotting myself into the offwidth at the belay on P2 and belaying my partner off the hip for fear of weighting the, uh, "anchor". Of course, when snow started 15 minutes later we had to rap off of it anyways... needless to say, it held. Oct 21, 2011

[Hide Comment] We were able to reach the ground in one double-rope rappel (60m) from a rap anchor (slung pinch described above) at the end of the 3rd pitch. Rope stretch was needed to get to the bottom, and minor variation in rope length could potentially make this unworkable. Total rappel length was likely 215-220 feet. Fortunately, it should be possible to see whether the ropes reach or not without passing the first ledge/anchor, but I strongly recommend tying knots in the ends of your ropes. Jul 23, 2012

[Hide Comment] Did this route a couple weekends ago. Was our first time on it so maybe this is normal, but above the P1 belay station just as you're getting to the roof on P2 there was an immense amount of loose rock, mud and general junk that had flown out of the bottom of the crack. Impossible to avoid and made for pretty scary moves into the crack....and wet/muddy feet that required cleaning before sending the roof.

But once past that, fantastic route.

We did not see any rap station at the top of P3, nor did we see anything we felt comfortable just slinging. Ended up leaving a couple nuts up there for the rap. Jul 22, 2015

[Hide Comment] sometime this season, a huge chunk of the route fell off at the beginning of pitch 2. the block that fell off is a bit downhill from the base of the climb, and is about the size of a van. doesn't change the grade, but there's a bunch of crummy rock where the block was. the crux moves are unaffected. Aug 3, 2015

[Hide Comment] Pete is correct, this route has seen a huge rockfall since last season. The entire block above the P2 belay is now lying in the water course at the bottom of the route. Climbing through the rockfall on P2 is unavoidable and very dirty, but technically not very difficult. The P2 crux hasn't been affected, and the rest of the route is normal. More rockfall is possible though, so be careful if you choose to do this otherwise fantastic route.

Pete, we really appreciated your nut rappel station on P3. Thanks! We added our own biner to the rig as well. Aug 3, 2015

[Hide Comment] This is a really great route with three very varied pitches - it has a little bit of everything.

Here is some beta to keep in mind. The first pitch looks very dirty and vegetated and appears not to protect well from the base, however, adequate gear placements appear as you climb. Nonetheless, it would be very nice if someone felt like scrubbing that corner - it would just be a bit more aesthetic. The second pitch does have a loose mungy section below the roof. Care must be taken not to dislodge any of these loose blocks of varying sizes. However, the climbing in this area is not particularly difficult, and this should not deter you from climbing the route. The cruxes are relatively short and well protected. Pitch two and three could be linked together if you are very comfortable climbing 5.10, and you use long slings. If you get to the top of the third pitch and cannot find the rappel anchor, top out onto the brushy ledge and you will see the the slung boulders recessed from the edge. Last, the route can be descended in 2 raps with a single 70 m rope. Jun 22, 2016

[Hide Comment] It’s pretty straightforward to run 2 and 3 together to the top. We didn’t rap but I will next time. Getting off the ground when it was wet was almost the crux. Sep 30, 2018

[Hide Comment] I'd actually vote that running p2 and 3 together is very sub-optimal. If you want to do it you'll have to be very thoughtful about gear placements, potentially even back-cleaning in a few spots (especially after the traverse into the p2 crux), or using many double length slings. Even with double slings we were dealing with horrendous rope drag on the p3 crux by linking them. However, if you're climbing as a party of 3, the p3 belay is going to be pretty crowded. Your choice. Aug 24, 2020

[Hide Comment] Really fun route. Pitch one was very wet when we climbed it about a week ago, and it had not rained with sunny weather for the days leading up, that corner seems to get very little sunlight. The combination of the long 5.7 run out and wet conditions made for very insecure and scary climbing, the rock was exceptionally slick. We climbed, scrambled, an bushwhacked to the Alpine Garden, we ended up on a fair bit of 5th class terrain up to 5.7ish so certainly not insignificant (not sure if there is a easier way to the Alpine Garden).
I'd bring a big bro next time, or a 5 or 6 Camalot for the pitch 2 anchor... there is not really any other gear options, and their is only one good piton, with a another not so good piton, and an old pin. It would really be best to put a bolted anchor there that would provide much more reliable and predictable protection and security. Oct 13, 2021