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1200' of more Fun
Trad, 1200 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II,
Avg: 3 from 15
FA: Paul Ross, Patrick Moe (Var Leads) 7th Nov/ 2009
> San Rafael Swell
> San Rafael Swel…
> Eastern Reef Ar…
> O Crags (Three Finger Canyon)
AKA: Needle Ridge, Starts just right of 1000' of Fun and climbs the long ridge. This is one of the few climbs in this area that one can walk off instead of rapping. However from the top of pitch 5 one could make a short rap to link onto the top anchors of 1000' of Fun and take five raps down that route.1200' is a sister route to 1000' of Fun with a little more commitment but even better views and situations
P1)Follow the easy rounded slab for about 60' to a bolt ,move down to the left to a lower slab then up a open groove passed two more bolts to double anchors.185'5.5/6R.
P2)From the belay climb passed a bolt and move up to the right to the upper ramp. Two more bolts are passed to double anchors.5.6/7R 200'
P3)The angle eases . Follow pleasant slab to double anchors 5.3R
P4)Continue passed a block in the groove and moderate climbing on excellent rock to double anchors.5.4R 200'
P5) Straight up keeping to the left edge of a fine open slab to double anchors.(One will see about 40' down to the left the anchors at the top of 1000' of Fun)5.5R 200'
P6) Climb across to the right from the anchors ,the up to a single bolt ,passed this up onto the ridge and to the summit anchors. 5.6/7 200'. Register in small cairn just above the belay.
Descent: Scramble 60' to junction with the "Walk in the Park Gully" Walk down this (30 mins) to the foot of the ridge.
Three Fingers Canyon. Drive 6.1 miles from the I.70 gate entrance to faint road on right ,then about two miles (four wheel)to the Three Finger Canyon
A few Cams .5 to #2 Camalots. Slings .One 60m rope if Gully descent is taken or Two 60m ropes if one raps down 1000'of Fun
[Hide Photo] The climbs:-A) 1200'of More Fun 5.7 B)1000'of Fun 5.6 C)Fall Not 5.7+ D)The Hollow Men 5.9.E)Curiosity Killed the Cat 5.9 F)Reptilian Curiosity 5.11R G) The Cats-Meow 5.10 and Cats Walk.5.7
[Hide Photo] John and that gurl with the ass chillin' like villains atop the roomy P1 belay. (Taken from P1 of 1000' of Fun.)
[Hide Photo] Without Berghaus gear one will find these climbs much more difficult!. Photo Pat Moe.