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1200' of more Fun

5.7, Trad, 1200 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 3 from 15 votes
FA: Paul Ross, Patrick Moe (Var Leads) 7th Nov/ 2009
Utah > San Rafael Swell > San Rafael Swel… > Eastern Reef Ar… > O Crags (Three Finger Canyon)

Description

AKA: Needle Ridge, Starts just right of 1000' of Fun and climbs the long ridge. This is one of the few climbs in this area that one can walk off instead of rapping. However from the top of pitch 5 one could make a short rap to link onto the top anchors of 1000' of Fun and take five raps down that route.1200' is a sister route to 1000' of Fun with a little more commitment but even better views and situations

P1)Follow the easy rounded slab for about 60' to a bolt ,move down to the left to a lower slab then up a open groove passed two more bolts to double anchors.185'5.5/6R.

P2)From the belay climb passed a bolt and move up to the right to the upper ramp. Two more bolts are passed to double anchors.5.6/7R 200'

P3)The angle eases . Follow pleasant slab to double anchors 5.3R

P4)Continue passed a block in the groove and moderate climbing on excellent rock to double anchors.5.4R 200'

P5) Straight up keeping to the left edge of a fine open slab to double anchors.(One will see about 40' down to the left the anchors at the top of 1000' of Fun)5.5R 200'

P6) Climb across to the right from the anchors ,the up to a single bolt ,passed this up onto the ridge and to the summit anchors. 5.6/7 200'. Register in small cairn just above the belay.

Descent: Scramble 60' to junction with the "Walk in the Park Gully" Walk down this (30 mins) to the foot of the ridge.

Location

Three Fingers Canyon. Drive 6.1 miles from the I.70 gate entrance to faint road on right ,then about two miles (four wheel)to the Three Finger Canyon

Protection

A few Cams .5 to #2 Camalots. Slings .One 60m rope if Gully descent is taken or Two 60m ropes if one raps down 1000'of Fun

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking down pitch five!
[Hide Photo] Looking down pitch five!
The climbs:-A) 1200'of More Fun 5.7 B)1000'of Fun 5.6 C)Fall Not 5.7+ D)The Hollow Men 5.9.E)Curiosity Killed the Cat 5.9 F)Reptilian Curiosity 5.11R G)  The Cats-Meow 5.10 and Cats Walk.5.7
[Hide Photo] The climbs:-A) 1200'of More Fun 5.7 B)1000'of Fun 5.6 C)Fall Not 5.7+ D)The Hollow Men 5.9.E)Curiosity Killed the Cat 5.9 F)Reptilian Curiosity 5.11R G) The Cats-Meow 5.10 and Cats Walk.5.7
John and that gurl with the ass chillin' like villains atop the roomy P1 belay. (Taken from P1 of 1000' of Fun.)
[Hide Photo] John and that gurl with the ass chillin' like villains atop the roomy P1 belay. (Taken from P1 of 1000' of Fun.)
Without Berghaus gear one will find these climbs much more difficult!. Photo Pat Moe.
[Hide Photo] Without Berghaus gear one will find these climbs much more difficult!. Photo Pat Moe.
Dawn.
[Hide Photo] Dawn.
Camp site
[Hide Photo] Camp site
Pat on top of the climb
[Hide Photo] Pat on top of the climb
Higher on last pitch
[Hide Photo] Higher on last pitch
Pat higher on third pitch
[Hide Photo] Pat higher on third pitch
Pat starting third pitch
[Hide Photo] Pat starting third pitch
Second pitch
[Hide Photo] Second pitch
Pat following second pitch
[Hide Photo] Pat following second pitch

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Was I on the wrong climb?!? All of the rock on this route is just rotten flakes. Might be considered 'excellent rock' if you're used to climbing on paper mache or something. The route has no pleasant characteristics whatsoever, except the view at the top, the camping in the area, and the proximity to Ray's Tavern in Green River. One pitch had no way to protect it at all, others had only make believe protection on rock that would explode if you actually fell on your pro. Or was protected with one piece that was maybe 15 feet below the belay anchor....which would have failed anyway. Several bolts were either loose and/or not even drilled in all the way. Debatable whether the climb or the walk off is more irritating. Don't know why the instructions talk about a 60 meter rope for the rap off. No rap. Don't know why this climb has ANY stars. This is a climb you don't need to do. May 29, 2010
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
[Hide Comment] Sounds like someone's mangina has accumulated quite a bit of sand from all that climbing in the SW desert...
Man up, this is the Swell, not your sanitized home crag.
See here for more of the same type of comments and how they're addressed. May 29, 2010
bheller
SL UT
[Hide Comment] Mark one Boissal! Quite entertaining that this was Wayne's first post on the proj! He signed up to post this!Welcome to the community Mr Hare! May 29, 2010
[Hide Comment] Great route. Thanks Mr. Ross for the belay bolts, and thanks for all the bolts you could have placed but didn't. This route is NOT for you if you're a 50'/ 8 bolt 5.7 leader, but will reward climbers who just put their heads down and go. Highly recommended if you like easy climbing and don't mind slinging three sandcastles on a 200' pitch. Great views from the summit and don't miss the rock art on the hike in. Mar 15, 2011
[Hide Comment] RUN OUT. Pitches 5&6 were GREAT. The rest was run out (3 placements in about 200 feet) Don't Slip. Rated well but sketch as far as placements/gear goes... My belayer started cussing at me when sometime either p3 or p4 I finally found a placement (that wasn't crap) 60-70 feet above the him. Screw that. I would rather be on Granite. May 1, 2012
DallinH
Utah
[Hide Comment] Stay in Colorado then. May 1, 2012
[Hide Comment] HmmmmÂ…I should check back more than every four years. Thought this was a forum for commenting on climbs, not climbers. At any rate, still consider this a way over-rated and dangerous climb. And oh yeah, the Swell pretty much IS my "sanitized home crag". Jan 30, 2014
[Hide Comment] Did this route last week as a stepping stone for my fave partner's multi-pitch experience. We had done 1000' previously. We moved rather quickly as the bluebird day fell into the pattern of T-storms so prevalent this spring.
P1. Kinda a joke runout to the first bolt passing several nice stances on the way. If one is concerned, I think you could stick clip from the descent gully or even belay from there. Not worth getting injured over. Reasonable bolt pro to the belay after that
P2 Bolt near the move to the right ramp. Couple of placements available after that. My 60m BARELY made the anchors pitches 2-5, just enough rope to put A. on belay off the anchor without tying in (yet)
P3 No reliable gear, no bolts
P4 No reliable gear, no bolts
P5 Good gear (cams in holes )
P6 The bolt (out to right per description) is about 180' from the belay. Placed a cam or 2 and a bomber #1 tricam before the bolt . Good hand sized placement just before the bolt as I followed the ridgeline. I wasn`t even close to reaching the belay with my 60m. My 70 m rope might have made it. Easy scramble for P7 (A. doesn't solo) with a good gear belay on 'top'.

My humble impression: An adventure route the needs a bit more love from the FA team. I super appreciate the work involved in establishing new routes, but the poor rock quality in combo with limited gear freaked A. a bit. Thanks! Jun 3, 2015
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.7
[Hide Comment] On the FA we used 60m ropes. Well this is slab climbing the world over be it be Whitehorse ledge in NH or the Glacier Point Apron slabs in Yosemite they are runout,that's what makes slab climbing interesting as the grade is often not that high.I guess more so in Utah and Colorado crack climbing and sport with lots of protection is more the norm.So until you get more familiar with this type of climbing it will feel a little freaky . Jun 3, 2015
Gary Jones
Cottonwood Heights, UT
 
[Hide Comment] I really enjoyed this climb, character builder. Chossy run out fun. We only brought one rope and did the walk off, not too bad. May 18, 2016
[Hide Comment] Let's just all agree that calling this the sister route to 1000 feet of fun with a "little" more commitment is some kind of Brutish (sic) understatement.
Agree with the above comments or not, I hope anyone attempting this route reads
them. And pitch 1, if you even have to think about it, carrying 1 rope or 2,
yes maybe go home now. Oct 17, 2016
Hobo Greg
My Van
  5.6 R
[Hide Comment] I can think of some really pleasant characteristics that Wayne wasn't able to find. First off, you're probably going to be alone in a very wild feeling place, and I don't know many multipitch climbs this close to the car that don't have crowds. Second, the rock is beautiful, just BEAUTIFUL! Swirls of crimson, ochre, tans, whites, browns, and pinks. The quality is pretty good too. There's lots of loose stuff and crunchy edges, but I've definitely climbed worse rock. Pro is of course scarce, and I wouldn't trust anything besides a bolt, and not even always then. But it's alpine climbing, what do you expect? Just because it's roadside and at a low grade doesn't mean it has to be safe. It's nature, deal with it or go somewhere else. Leave the crusty routes for the crusty desert rats, and for those who aspire to be one. Mar 3, 2018