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The Overlook

5.11+, Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.5 from 14 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Reservoir Wall
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. DetailsDrop down

Description

Two pitches. The second pitch is a beautiful hands to tight hands to big fingers splitter. The first pitch is a "tower" type pitch with wiggling behind pillars and such. Not too bad. Worth doing to get to P2.

P1- 5.10 110'. Book says 5.9, but the last part feels pretty hard and the whole thing is squirelly and a bit run. I can only imagine somebody saying "Gosh, honey, the book says its only 5.9, why don't you lead it." Then watching their relationship being ripped asunder by yet another big hands to fist totter-fest.

P2- 5.11+ 70'. Use to be called 12-, book says 5.11. If Pente is 5.11, then this is a little harder.

Location

On the prow of The Reservoir between sun and shade.

Protection

P1- Variety on the bigger end. Bring a #5 camalot. Save a couple #3 camalots for last part to the ledge.

P2- Hands to tight hands to big fingers.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Pitch 2 splitter. "The guidebook said to bring 6 #1's, so we brought 1 #6."
[Hide Photo] The Pitch 2 splitter. "The guidebook said to bring 6 #1's, so we brought 1 #6."
Hayden Kennedy having the time of his life.
[Hide Photo] Hayden Kennedy having the time of his life.
Starting up the Pitch 2 splitter.
[Hide Photo] Starting up the Pitch 2 splitter.
Looking down the offwidth at the end of Pitch 1. The cam with the green carabiner midway up the offwidth is a #6.
[Hide Photo] Looking down the offwidth at the end of Pitch 1. The cam with the green carabiner midway up the offwidth is a #6.
The somewhat manky anchor at the top of Pitch 2.
[Hide Photo] The somewhat manky anchor at the top of Pitch 2.
Looking down the Pitch 2 splitter. As we were climbing, several chips of rock came off the edges of the crack. The route is not climbed as much as the rounded trade route splitters. But great climbing! (But it will tear apart your shoes.)
[Hide Photo] Looking down the Pitch 2 splitter. As we were climbing, several chips of rock came off the edges of the crack. The route is not climbed as much as the rounded trade route splitters. But great climb…
The offwidth at the top of the pitch. It actually widens to a #6 size just above where I have placed the #5, so bring a #6.
[Hide Photo] The offwidth at the top of the pitch. It actually widens to a #6 size just above where I have placed the #5, so bring a #6.
Pitch 1 reminds me of some of the tower climbing I've done in the Moab area: giant features that require a mix of offwidth, chimney, and stemming, and are unprotected or protected by big cams. (For big cams, we had 2 #3's, 1 #4, 2 #5's, and 1 #6.)
[Hide Photo] Pitch 1 reminds me of some of the tower climbing I've done in the Moab area: giant features that require a mix of offwidth, chimney, and stemming, and are unprotected or protected by big cams. (For…
Looking up from the base. Pitch 1 squirrels through some offwidth to the base of the obvious vertical splitter you can see on the upper wall in the photo. Pitch 2 climbs this splitter.
[Hide Photo] Looking up from the base. Pitch 1 squirrels through some offwidth to the base of the obvious vertical splitter you can see on the upper wall in the photo. Pitch 2 climbs this splitter.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Sam Feuerborn
Carbondale
  5.11+
[Hide Comment] The anchor on the second pitch should be evaluated by future parties. I was up there last weekend and it's looking like some pretty faded tat on some pretty sharp hangers. I didn't have any extra webbing on me but just a heads up to future parties. Sweet climb though. Nov 16, 2010
Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
  5.11+
[Hide Comment] Yeah...P1 is solid .10
And rope mgmt is important Dec 30, 2017
Steph Abegg
Estes Park, CO
[Hide Comment] Pitch 1 requires some big cams. We had 2 #3's, 1 #4, 2 #5's, and 1 #6, and I used them all and was pretty comfortable. Save the #6 and a #3 for the final offwidth. Sep 16, 2018
blue ribbon
Indian Creek, UT
  5.11+
[Hide Comment] Yesterday we replaced the tat on both anchors with chains but the bolts at the top of p2 still need replacement. For p1 we climbed not the line as illustrated by Steph but to the right about 20' starting at the plaque up a splitter big hands crack behind the pillar to a ledge then taking a crack about 15' right of the OW corner in Steph's photo. It felt about 5.10 and didn't take anything bigger than a 4. Oct 26, 2021