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Routes in East Bluff North Talus Field

Type: Boulder
FA: Remo (A.B.C.)
Page Views: 1,441 total, 15/month
Shared By: Remo on Nov 10, 2009
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

To get started grab large block in middle of boulder, get a good left heel-toe cam, left hand pinch, and right hand on good rail. Bump out left to good crimp and fight your way up using smart footwork to gain high side-pull. Committing throw to the finish. So rad!!

Location

Upper middle of talus field. A couple trees keep it hidden, just move around a bit and you can't miss this boulder.

Protection

Lots of pads and spotters.
Ian CB
  V6
Ian CB  
  V6
We tried that upper sidepull. It felt better from the lower crimp that day. Also, this is a bad ass climb and it should get more traffic. You can fall of the last big move and be fine with a few pads and a spotter to insure you don't lose you balance and go down the hill... May 9, 2013
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  V6
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  V6
None of us used the upper sidepull. That hold felt very greasy, maybe cuz it was kind of a humid morning. Using that seems like it would have made the move easier for sure. We had to brush the crimps between each go. May 9, 2013
Remo
Madison, WI
 
Remo   Madison, WI
 
Chris, did anyone use the upper side-pull? The throw to the lip isn't so bad from there. May 9, 2013
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  V6
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  V6
youtube.com/watch?v=CnIb6Rw…

I don't have anyone sending but you get the idea. Huck for a jug on the left side top and top it out. May 9, 2013
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  V6
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  V6
I had wanted to try this since the first "project" photos were posted in late 2009. A group of finally went and had a little send train. We all agreed it was more like V6 based on comparable problems, continuing the Remo FA sandbag trend (not that that's a bad thing). Excellent problem. May 8, 2013
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
great work man!!! looks like a blast. glad to hear about the landing. it was a bit intimidating when i thought about trying it solo. Mar 17, 2010
Remo
Madison, WI
 
Remo   Madison, WI
 
This boulder is so good! We built up a good landing zone to make it a little more secure. Still a very scary and heart pumping climb. Not as difficult as once thought, but still amazingly fun. Mar 16, 2010
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
Yeah I wanted to try it but with the sloped landing and being by myself i wasn't confident to try it. plus i kind of ran out of daylight. Dec 2, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
 
Remo   Madison, WI
 
The left arete was the line I was eyeing. Your right there could be a couple lines. Dec 2, 2009
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
So I only checked this out briefly and didn't try it because I ran out of time and was also not sure about climbing it on my own with the landing sloping away and not having a spotter. I didn't examine to closely but the feature is definately rad. Not that wide though which made me think that there are 2 lines. one using the left arete and the roof face and one using the right arete and the roof face. Not certain about a line up the middle or not. I think the left arete will be harder because of the slopey nature of the top out. This block is straight up from the 36th parking spot from the left if ur facing the talus. Dec 1, 2009