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Routes in East Bluff North Talus Field

Type: Boulder
FA: Ian Cotter-Brown
Page Views: 1,684 total, 17/month
Shared By: Remo on Nov 10, 2009
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

Start with decent side-pulls low and right, gain the textured edge and sack-up and send!

Location

Top of talus field near cliff band at the upper left side.

Protection

Pads and spot.
Remo
Madison, WI
 
Remo   Madison, WI
 
This is a great problem with excellent movement! I would say it's on the easier side of 8. Apr 22, 2014
Hemberger Hemberger
Madison, Wisconsin
  V8
Hemberger Hemberger   Madison, Wisconsin
  V8
Definitely felt harder than an 8. The last move takes some serious timing to unlock. That being said, my favorite of the grade at the lake. Aug 4, 2013
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
wow. nice! Nov 5, 2011
Remo
Madison, WI
 
Remo   Madison, WI
 
Great job Ian! Psyched it finally went down. Do you have a new name for it? Nov 5, 2011
Ian CB
 
Ian CB  
 
Cool problem. Maybe v8 or so. Nov 5, 2011
Hemberger Hemberger
Madison, Wisconsin
  V8
Hemberger Hemberger   Madison, Wisconsin
  V8
Ian sent it today. Peter, Ian and myself figured out the beta, and Ian put it all together for the send. Really, really, really fun movement on the opening moves to a hard move to the lip. Nov 4, 2011
Remo
Madison, WI
 
Remo   Madison, WI
 
Linking this problem is very powerful. It needs to get sent! Oct 12, 2010
Remo
Madison, WI
 
Remo   Madison, WI
 
Cool Sweaty, good work! Yeah the upper section seemed like the crux. Big move to the lip. Dec 2, 2009
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
I also never expected you to say that! :-) This boulder field is awesome. Really filthy, but awesome. You literally walk straight up from your car. Which is nice. and there's tons of big blocs you can see from the parking lot and can walk straight up and scope them. I like.

P.S. Did I mention that hold is sharp? Cause it's sharp. Dec 2, 2009
I never thought I would say this but...I'm psyched to go bouldering! (Gasp!) Weird, someone slap me. Dec 2, 2009
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
Here is a tutorial of the holds.

youtube.com/watch?v=vIMHeQp… Dec 1, 2009
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
Here's my first try on this thing.

youtube.com/watch?v=iGIXyY0… Dec 1, 2009
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
I tried this a time or 2. Probably 2 separate lines. One that uses the arete and face and one that starts near the arete traverses a couple moves to the center and goes up. I tried the latter after building up the sloping hill a bit. Arete would need a bunch of cleaning and probably wouldn't be to hard maybe v3 or 4. Face is hard and painful and will be heady. Traverse isn't bad then you hit a really sharp sidepull thing and a bad right hand 2 finger gaston. Then you would have to hike your feet all the way up and manage to throw all the way to the lip (which is good). Doesnt seem to be any other holds but that. It is directly up from parking space #20 from the left if facing the talus. Dec 1, 2009