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Routes in East Bluff North Talus Field

Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: John Sweatpants Freaney
Page Views: 66 total, 1/month
Shared By: Remo on Nov 10, 2009
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Start with hands in slanting crack. Set foot on good ledge and dead-point to lip. Very core intensive and very hard.

Location

Upper left section of talus just around the left from Fantasticorner.

Protection

Pads and spotters

Photos

Ian CB
  V7
Ian CB  
  V7
If it is a cold day and you want sun, this is a good quick afternoon hit. Also, if you start just right from a sit, with your right hand on the arĂȘte and left on a funky pinch in the seam you have "The Winter Booze" probably v8. Nov 24, 2013
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V7-
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
  V7-
wow man people are psyched!!! shit is going down this season for sure. Mar 17, 2010
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
  V7-
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
  V7-
Fun problem, nice work Sweaty. 1st move would perhaps be a little easier with a bigger wingspan. Kinda sketch landing, but not that bad (ie. I fell off many times and walked away unscathed, surprisingly). Mar 17, 2010
Remo
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
Nice work Sweaty. Glad you got after it man, very cool. Dec 2, 2009
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V7-
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
  V7-
sorry about the end of the video. I don't know what happened. Dec 2, 2009
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V7-
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
  V7-
Here's the long awaited but bearly worth it vid of the send. sorry that the feet arent in it. First move is really hard though it doesnt look it in the video. the send was the first time i stuck that move.

vimeo.com/7946625 Dec 2, 2009
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V7-
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
  V7-
Hello Nicoli. Do you mean to power problem or technical Alpine Club? lol. Seriously though it's hard to tell. Everything is pretty dirty and I didn't get to go and see a ton of this field. It's quite long. not that tall. which is nice because you can just walk along the bottom and see almost every boulder from the bottom. So I think there is lots of potential. I didn't get on or see anything that was as cut and dry as alpine club. winter blues was just ok. you are kind of sitting/ leaning your back against this pointy rock and make this thrutch to the lower lip. left foot toe hook is what keeps you on the wall. then it's mostly over. I gave it one star. Science project is really sharp but I think the arete could be a blast. just underneath T.W.B there is a large overhanging bulge thing that you would need some good pad coverage and a hell of a scrub. That could be really cool. The wave rider problems could be cool but I'm not sure they will be that hard and I'm not certain there is an independent line that goes up the middle. I'm not sure you should get ur hopes up on Greatest Show bud as I have heard that it isn't as hard as the 9/10 rating it gets and kind of a sandstone/ pebble conglomerate that is a bit crumbly/ chossy. I just don't want to to get disapointed or something. I've been to it and it looks neat, those are just things that I've heard. i want to come try that problem you were talking about. pictures? name? Dec 2, 2009
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V7-
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
  V7-
Its doing the same thing on Vimeo unfortunately. real weird. good to see you to Eggnuts! Thanks for the beverage. Dec 2, 2009
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
Try vimeo.com if you feel like it, they allow for much better quality too :) Dec 2, 2009
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V7-
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
  V7-
For some reason 'lametube' is having trouble uploading it. I've tried a ton of times with no luck so far. As soon as it's up I'll fix the link. Sorry for the delay on this really poor video. lol Dec 2, 2009
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
Ooohhh, no more video :( Dec 2, 2009
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
  V7-
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
  V7-
Rampage sweaty! Good to see you buddy. Dec 2, 2009
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V7-
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
  V7-
Also, this boulder is straight up from the 6th parking spot from the left if you are facing the talus. Dec 1, 2009
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V7-
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
  V7-
Thanks for the intro Steve. Indeed I completed this today. I called it 'The Winter Blues' for now I'm calling it a V7- but I'm willing to hear other thoughts as I am not sure what to think on the rating. Here's a poor video of the FA. And a tutorial on the holds. Dec 1, 2009
Sweaty just gave me a call and let me know he sent this thing today. Pretty cool. Sounds like he has video of him doing it. I think he called it 'Winter Blues'. Dec 1, 2009