Type: Trad, 330 ft, 3 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Robert Warren, Max Kendall, April 1988
Page Views: 1,081 total · 9/month
Shared By: Ben Kiessel on Nov 9, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

DR IV says that this route goes at 5.11-. I did not do the moves free but I would guess more like 5.12ish. This route is not for everyone, Brad thought is sucked, I thought it was awesome.

Pitch one:
Start up the loose crack system on the south face of the tower. Pass a small roof on hand jams about 20' off the ground, continue on broken cracks to a two pin belay at a stance below a big roof. We broke this pitch up in to two because of bad rope drag. A #6 camalot is very helpful at the top of this pitch. The book calls this 5.8 which it is not. I would guess 5.10. (150'ish)

Pitch two:
Climb out the right side of the roof to super fun climbing above. Bring a #6 for above the roof to avoid some run out terrain. Climb into a chimney which is protected by a star bolt and a drilled pin. Continue to a belay on a good ledge with two drilled angles. 5.11-. (just over 100')

Pitch three:
Climb a wide crack in a corner for 20'. Scramble through a wide crack to the other side and climb easy (5.7) unprotected terrain for 40' to a drilled pin. Take a breather because this is where I think the 5.12 section is. I aided up and stood on the pin and probably didn't climb anything harder then scary 5.10(if you fell you would back plant on a ledge). Continue up passed very loose blocks to a star bolt and some fun climbing. Two pin hanging anchor is to your left. (175'ish)

Descent:
Rappel the route. The belays were placed so the rope would pull well and they do.

Location

The route starts on the south side of the tower.

Protection

One set of stoppers, doubles from .3-4 camalot, one #5 and #6 camalot , runners and draws, two 60 meter ropes.

Photos