Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,226 total · 11/month
Shared By: Dave Daly on Nov 9, 2009
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

Originally a top rope route, this fine Enchanted Rock climb was later bolted by the first ascensionist in order to entertain the pleading cries of the masses to make it a bold lead. Certainly bold since the average stretch between bolts is 20'+ feet, including a "heady" section between bolt #3 and #4....a possible ankle breaker on the slab underneath the overlap. A quality slab route nonetheless! Highly recommended!

Start by locating 2 bolts on the initial slab section (15' left of Ripple and 10' right of an obvious black stain...often wet). Clip the 2 bolts while heading up to the overlap/headwall. Clip the 3rd bolt above the overlap (a height dependant reach to clip) and make a balancy mantle onto the slab above. Delicate footwork and small crimps up and slightly right lead to clipping the 4th bolt (the crux...a mental one for sure!). From bolt #4, continue up the dark section of rock and clip the 5th bolt and eventually to the achors above. Lower off with a 6o meter rope.

Location

This route it situated 15' left of the start of 'Ripple'. Locate 2 bolts on slab above before it reaches an overlap/headwall. A 60 meter rope will reach the ground to lower off the anchors.

Protection

- (5) bolts, to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

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Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
  5.9- R
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
  5.9- R
Nice route. A bit spooky after the 3rd bolt. Did this as the last route of the day...just as it started to rain! =O Nov 9, 2009
mattm
TX
  5.9 PG13
mattm   TX
  5.9 PG13
Agree with the comments on TJ Swan. 20/20 is not more difficult than TJ. 5.8. You can get gear in below the headwall but it's pretty straightforward to reach up and clip the bolt above the bulge. A bit spicy moving to the next bolt so a heads up belay to keep you off the slab below would be nice. Didn't feel R to me - more PG13 Jan 18, 2014
David Arredondo
Austin, TX
  5.8
David Arredondo   Austin, TX
  5.8
Great route. No harder or scarier than any of the other slab moderates in the park. A little to easy for 5.9 in my book, but I may be splitting hairs. Nov 12, 2018