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Routes in Bioturbation Wall

Acid Rain T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Aeon Flux T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Alienation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Biomass T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bioturbation T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bruce Lee as FUCK T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Calibration T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Captain Crunchbot T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Captian Kangaroo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Chalking Up Rails T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chest Full of Kind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cups T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Elation T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Evacuation T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Just the Tips T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Lifer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scrunch T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dylan Warren
Page Views: 923 total, 9/month
Shared By: claytown on Nov 9, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The book calls this a stellar route and I agree. Lots of #1 camalots. Go up a corner then make your way out the long left traverse roof. Just keep moving!

Location

a ways right of Chest Full of Kind and Cups. Look for the corner to the roof that goes left. Slightly left of directly beneath the anchors is Scrunch.

Protection

lots of #1s a couple of .75s, maybe a #4 for the start, and few #2 camalots.

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4 star climbing, 2 star rock quality. Did not take much to pull a 3' long x 6" section off midway up the corner. Glad I tested it on the way up and was able to avoid it for the most part. On the way down, on my 2nd lap after my belayer was in the clear, less than a laybacking pull got it to go. Other sections seemed dubious as well. Only bring 2s if you don't have enough 1s. May 5, 2017
This is a fantastic Dylan Warren route... Sep 4, 2014
Courtney Pace   Sandy
Pretty much #1 cams lots up the corner with a few .75s. Then some 2s for the roof and a #1 or 3 would fit in too. Lots of laybacking! The traverse is some of the best laybacking I've done. Much easier than layaway plan Jun 8, 2012