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The Arete

5.8, Trad, 110 ft (33 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 124 votes
FA: unknown
New Hampshire > WM: Franconia N… > Echo Crag > 9. The Dream Wall

Description

What a good route, with even better views and exposure. One of the longer routes at Echo. Climb the blunt arete to a 2 bolt anchor just below the trees. The crux is a little past mid height at a fixed cam.
My 60 meter rope just barely gets me down, but I've been on it with other "60s" and had to do two raps (which is easy enough).

Location

The obvious rounded arete on "The Dream Wall"

Protection

Standard rack. There is one fixed pin, and one fixed cam (with no sling).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Awesome climb
[Hide Photo] Awesome climb
View from the top.
[Hide Photo] View from the top.
Rapping down to the left of the Arete.
[Hide Photo] Rapping down to the left of the Arete.
Beautiful exposure.
[Hide Photo] Beautiful exposure.
Bottom section of the route
[Hide Photo] Bottom section of the route

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Great route, it would be a classic anywhere. It is a rope strecher, on shorter ropes we have had to rap into the gulley on the left. Fun slab climb to the left of the arete also. Nov 12, 2009
Qcridgerunner Cote
Orford, QC
[Hide Comment] Awesome route. Second crux is the one ! Sep 19, 2010
Casey Engstrom
Squamish, BC
 
[Hide Comment] A single rope 60m rappel got us down fine. Oct 4, 2016
Russ Keane
Salt Lake
[Hide Comment] Pretty nice! Very easy for the grade. Pleasant climbing with great position. Aug 3, 2017
seda s
 
[Hide Comment] Great & fun climb with great views. Fixed cam has no sling but that spot takes good pro (small cams). Do not clip the single bolt on the left side closer to the crux - it is tempting at the spot. If clipped then after placing a pro try unclipping it (otherwise creates a Z and a killer rope drag as the route continues on the right side and takes a left turn after the crux). As mentioned, the route is longer than average routes in the crag so bring enough draws / pro as you might have to run out the last section after the crux (running out might be OK if you are confident - holds&stances are great but with a rope drag it might become pretty dangerous). Jul 13, 2025
Joey Touchstone
Winooski, VT
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] Great route with good stances and ample protection. it's easy to climb up and down from the crux if you can't figure out the beta Sep 16, 2025
Stoked Weekend Warrior
Belay Ledge
 
[Hide Comment] Great route. We were able to lower off with a stretchy 60m to the start with ~10 ft left, no gully shenanigans required. Oct 6, 2025