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Routes in Deadman's Buttress

Chalk is Cheap T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chasin' Skirt T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Chopper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dark Passenger , The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Dawn of an Error T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dragon's Lair T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gin and Techtonics T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Head Stack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mocha Chocolate Yaya T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peccadillo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Program Director T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shit Eatin' Grin T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spawn of a Terror T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Teacher Conference T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 11 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Brett and Stuart Ruckman
Page Views: 998 total, 10/month
Shared By: charley graham on Nov 8, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Legend has it that the Ruckman Bros felt this was one of the best desert lines they put up. I like all their routes but this one is special, on par with their other multi-pitch mega-classic, pistol whipped.

pitch 1: Widening right facing corner, fingers to hands with a ton of the latter. 5.11, 140 ft.
pitch 2: From the belay, traverse right to a drilled angle and the face-climbing crux of the route. Afterwards, negotiate a long pumpy right facing corner of all sizes and belay below the squeeze chimney. 5.11+, 140 ft.
pitch 3: Squeeze through the chimney and up the steep big hands finish to the top. 5.10, 120 ft.

Location

On the sunny side of Long Canyon. Approach via the final break in the Chinle cliffs below the Wingate before the road bends right and begins the switchbacks up to Maverick buttress. This talus slog delivers you to a point slightly to the right of G and T. So walk left along the base of the cliff 5 minutes to a very striking off-width splitter that goes for 200ft. on the outside of a large pillar. G and T is the first right facing corner to the right of the offwidth. There is a plaque at the base of the climb, which begins off of a ledge, 60 ft. off the ground. Scramble onto the ledge on its right side.
Descend via the next route to the climbers right (about 15 ft. along the rim) which has much newer rappel rings than G and T.

Protection

A fairly large rack. Triples from tips to wide hands and singles of the bigger stuff including a #6 friend or camalot unless you are of the opinion that 5.10 squeeze is easier without a cam in the way. Also, the first pitch can swallow lots of #2 camalots, there is probably 60-80 ft of hands.

Photos

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Aaron Rotchadl
Park City, UT
Aaron Rotchadl   Park City, UT
Just climbed this and I thought I'd add that linking the second and third pitches is definitely the way to do it.(can be done with a 70m) Doing it this way the triple rack felt adequate but you should take 8ish slings to minimize drag. That second belay would take red camalots but you'd be hanging right beneath a nice ledge where you'd need #6 camalots to build a belay. And the silt was tolerable but did make it more difficult. Oct 15, 2017
ben jammin
Moab, UT
  5.11+ PG13
ben jammin   Moab, UT
  5.11+ PG13
I did this route today 2/7/11 and it should be said that there is no anchors for the second pitch and not really even any place to build one. I would give this pg13 because of all the silt. my buddy took some whips and was pulling pieces left and right from all the silt. All and all, it was ok. Feb 7, 2011