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Routes in Slhanay (The Squaw)

Astride my Indian Queen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Babies in Kailand T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Birds of Prey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chicken Hawk T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deviant's Games T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Face Your Creator T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Feather, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Flight Simulator T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fog Ducker Spire T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Frayed Ends of Sanity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Godforsaken Land T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0
Great Drain, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great Game, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Halley's Comet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jungle Warfare T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Photophobia T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pipeline T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Wing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Squeamishness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Supernatural T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
XTC Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 550 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: FA Harry Young, Robin Barley FFA Colin Moorhead Craig Mcgee
Page Views: 1,669 total · 16/month
Shared By: Colin Moorhead on Nov 8, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Stop Camping Illegally Details

Description

Good new 5 pitch line with one truly outstanding pitch, the "feather' pitch is surely one the best 5.11's Squamish has to offer.

Location

Approximately 40m right of Straight Outta Squammpton.
Two rope rappel gets you down in 3 rappels

Protection

Nuts and a double set of cams, include 1 #4 camalot.

Photos

Just climbed this today and wanted to mention that it is possible to rap this line with one 70m rope.

Also: above the first pitch we went slightly right and up to a bolt (that is not marked on the topo) before continuing up the crack instead of left to the wide crack. This variation was easy and created less rope drag.

Finally, the start of the Feather pitch is thin before clipping the bolt and reaching the locks. I recommend that the belayer lower their stance a ways to give the leader room to climb (and/or fall).

Final, 10d pitch felt tough, but that might just be my lack of slab skills. Really cool, fun route! Aug 14, 2010
Daniel Hassell
Evergreen, CO
  5.11d
Daniel Hassell   Evergreen, CO
  5.11d
This was a fantastic route! The 11d slab traverse is tricky and sustained with a sting in the tail, and the feather pitch is on par with the quality and simplicity of the split pillar (but shorter and harder). The last 10d slab pitch was the crux for me - it felt at least comparable in difficulty to many of the moves on the 11d traverse, though maybe if you're 6'5 you can get through easier. A few of the bolts along the route are spinners. Jul 5, 2018
Matthew Tangeman
Bellingham, WA
 
Matthew Tangeman   Bellingham, WA
 
can confirm the first move of the 10d slab pitch might be the hardest move on the route unless you're 6'5" with a positive ape index. We took the original start (wide 5.9 crack) which is a blatantly bolted crack but less contrived and cleaner than the 11a start. The Feather itself is incredible, as good as the split pillar and more splitter and fun than the daily planet.

Very easy to rap with a single 70 (probably even a 60) by using the Bella Coola/Dean Channel anchors just lookers left of the topout. 4 raps this way I believe? Jul 10, 2018

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