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Routes in Half Dome

Autobahn T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Blondike T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Deuceldike T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Eye in the Sky T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Growing Up T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c A0
Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Snake Dike T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Southwest Face, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Two Hoofers T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 1500 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Mark Spencer, Shirley Spencer, Dan Abbot & David Abbot, April 1985
Page Views: 3,442 total, 35/month
Shared By: Eric Foster on Nov 7, 2009
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

It starts off the right side of the rope up ledge for Snake Dike. It heads right for a short 5.9 pitch to an anchor on 1/4" bolts then the second pitch follows a runout dike to a runout face that joins Snake Dike at the end of the second pitch then goes straight up the face above the anchor instead of traversing to the Snake Dike. Natural pro is needed for the 10B pitch up high. (Adamclimbs)

Location

Approach same as snake dike, also starts the same as well for the first pitch only

Protection

some gear might be helpful in a few spots, otherwise a few draws for the extremely runout climbing on quarter inchers.

Photos

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T-rack
Merced, CA
T-rack   Merced, CA
I think you'd have to go deliberately out of your way to get off-route on Snake Dike Feb 8, 2017
Eli
Lives in a truck
Eli   Lives in a truck
Is it possible to accidentally traverse into this route from the 3rd pitch of snake dike? Jan 28, 2017
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
This climb is at most a 5.9, and even for that grade it seemed a lot easier than some other Valley 5.9's like Quicksilver and Angelica. I also get the feeling that the FA used up all their bolts on the first 5 pitches and then had to make due with gear anchors and runout climbing for the last 3 pitches. The "10b" (more like 5.8) 6th pitch is quite runout with a really bad fall onto a low-angle slab below. Expect 5.7 R/X climbing. But it's still a really cool pitch with interesting climbing in a shallow corner with a dike on the left-hand wall. Good climb, big approach, bolts are good-to-go now, do it instead of Snake Dike if you're up for a 5.9 R. Apr 6, 2015
Bolts replaced in summer 2010 by Roger Brown et al. Apr 7, 2012
FA: Mark Spencer, Shirley Spencer, Dan Abbot, David Abbot, 4/1985 Mar 7, 2012
The route does not actually start after the first pitch of Snake Dike,it starts off the right side of the rope up ledge for Snake Dike. It heads right for a short 5.9 pitch to an anchor on 1/4" bolts then the second pitch follows a runout dike to a runout face that joins Snake Dike at the end of the second pitch then goes straight up the face above the anchor instead of traversing to the Snake Dike. Natural pro is needed for the 10B pitch up high. I thought this was a high quality route in a great position, but would recommend it only if you enjoy runouts on old bolts. Almost all protection bolts are 1/4" and many are protruding more than a 1/4" to 1/2" from the rock. Jun 4, 2010