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Routes in Cliffs of Insanity

Are There Rocks Ahead T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
As you wish T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Back to the Beginning T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Broken Brain T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Brute Squad T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dirty Spaniard, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fairy Dust T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Farm Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fezzik T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Fire Swamp, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Funny Farm T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Get Used to the Disappointment T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gilder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hor D'oeuvres T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
I've Seen Worse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Inconceivable T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inigo Montoya T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Iocane Powder T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Iron Lady Tower, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
Jumping the Shark T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lobotomy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
M.C.'s Hammer T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Man In Black T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mawwage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nurse Rachet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nutter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Offwidth Your Head T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pit of Despair T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Prepare To Die T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Prince Humperdinky T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Princess Buttercup T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Puzzle Factory T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
R.O.U.S T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shrieking Eels T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Six Fingerd Man T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Skip to the End T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Storming the Castle T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Str8 Jacket T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
To The Pain T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
True Love T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unamed 5.10+ (far left hands splitter) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown (way right of wiggins finger to fist obtuse corner) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 5.10+ (off fingers/thin hands splitter w/ pods) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown OW (bombay flare left of wiggins routes) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Use Your Head T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vinciny T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wiggins I T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Wiggins II T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
cave route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
jew fro an a boner T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,676 total, 27/month
Shared By: Alex Garhart on Nov 4, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Great splitter hands that pitches you out of the crack a lot. Goes through a small roof near the top with sketchy block below the roof.

Location

Left of where the approach trail meets the crag about five minutes on the north face.

Protection

Thin hands to fists, heavy on 3.0"-3.5" and a #4 camalot. 2 drilled angles with climbing rope for the anchor (bring replacement webbing).

Photos

NicholasKoch  
 
Any idea how old the webbing is at the anchor? It looks new, but looks can be deceiving. The bolt and pitons look alright from visual/manual inspection. Oct 15, 2017
slim

  5.10c PG13
slim    
  5.10c PG13
excellent physical climbing, way heavy on cups (#3 camalots). it is helpful to have about 1 or 2 each of .5 to #1, as well as a handful of #2's to help save on 3's. i would have liked to have a few 3.5 camalots or 4 friends as well, as the 3's get pretty tipped. a 3.5 would have been really handy at the roof (between a pair of not great blocks). bring some runners/draws as well.

there are still 3 block/flake sections that should be treated with respect. i would give this a pg13 compared to the usual creek plug and chug deal.

we used an 80m rope, which worked great for this route. May 2, 2017
Ryan Huetter
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Ryan Huetter   Mammoth Lakes, CA
The loose flake is gone. I carefully avoided it on lead, but it was moving easily when lightly touched, so we cleared the base and yanked the offending block out of there. It would have killed anyone at the base. Route remains at the same grade, same gear, now a whole lot safer. Oct 25, 2014
Jeff Scheuerell
  5.10
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.10
What a great pitch! Do be carefull with the avoidable looseness below the roof. Also at the top where the rock turns from splitter big hands to a questionable flake. I did not put any pro in this last 10' before the anchor. There is also a bit of looseness right before the anchor.

The crowds were gathered around MC's when we got to the base. Asked a guy if he knew how far left it was to this route. He said "We don't go to the left". What a mistake, this guys ego is causing him to miss one steller pitch. Nov 8, 2012
greg t
Chevy, Silverado
greg t   Chevy, Silverado
The sketchy blocks are quiet sketchy looking indeed. They also happen to be right before the crux, making the gear a little lower on the climb than some may like. They can be passed with some finesse, but use your head and dont belay underneath the climb. Other than that, this is one of the best handcracks at the creek. Oct 17, 2012
WMcD  
Huge fun. You can get down with a 70m and minor shenanigans. Apr 27, 2012
Jeff Stephens
Carbondale, CO
 
Jeff Stephens   Carbondale, CO
 
This striking pitch is not only great fun, but features a cooling ventilation system that begins about 30 or 40 feet up. The sketchy block/flake is definitely not sound, but can be thoughtfully avoided. The climb is a longer-than-you-think walk left from where the approach trail reaches the cliff. Apr 25, 2012