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The Fiend

5.9, Trad, 115 ft (35 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 73 votes
FA: John Sherwood & Don Doucette, '70s
Colorado > S Platte > Turkey Rocks > Turkey Rock
Warning Access Issue: NOTE: Access only from Turkey Rocks Trailhead. DetailsDrop down

Description

The Fiend is four climbs right of Straw Turkey on the sunny side of Turkey Rock. It climbs a steep slab with a splitter finger crack leading to a small roof. Crank the roof, continue straight up on easier terrain, and finish up a wide crack in a right-facing corner. 

Protection

Standard rack to 4". There is a fixed anchor. A 70m rope will reach.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A winter day on The Fiend.
[Hide Photo] A winter day on The Fiend.
Pennie Schwalm above the roof.
[Hide Photo] Pennie Schwalm above the roof.
Fiendishly good climbing.
[Hide Photo] Fiendishly good climbing.
The Fiend.
[Hide Photo] The Fiend.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Crag Dweller
New York, NY
[Hide Comment] This is a fun climb with a lot of variety. IMO, this is a great climb for the competent sport climber who is just getting into trad and crack climbing as it requires a bit of crack technique but offers plenty of face climbing options as well.

I left a #11 BD stopper on the climb on 3/26/11. It's about 2/3 of the way up the climb. I discovered that my nut tool was on the ground, and it was getting too late to go back down for it. So, there's bootie to be had or, if you retrieve it and you're into good karma and beer, please send me a PM. Mar 27, 2011
Tim Banfield
Calgary, Alberta
  5.9
[Hide Comment] 60m rope makes it if you rap from the cables. It is close though May 28, 2011
Greg I
Denver
 
[Hide Comment] Really fun climb to follow. Cruxy start to get to roof. Roof was super solid. We finished on the harder crack system leading to the right cable anchor. Jul 2, 2018