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Routes in 04. Highlander Wall
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Boy Scout Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Champ, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Contender, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Excelsior T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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JAG S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Letting Go T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Microwave Mayo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Misguided T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Old Boys S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Old Boys Club S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pretty Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Quartz Crescendo T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Quickening, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sleeve of Wizard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Snafu S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Split Image S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Brad White |
| Page Views: | 1,267 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Jonathan Baldassare on Nov 4, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
It's hard to believe that the dramatic overhang at the top of this route goes at 5.10c...but it does (you will have to work for it though).
There are two ways to do this. You can start to the left (and avoid the 5.11a roof), which is the route "Old Boys" and goes at .10c. OR you can do the "Old Boys Club" direct start (a one or two move 11a), which I feel is a cleaner line with better rock and moves. To do it, make some moderate moves up to the roof (a good hold), and the first bolt. One or two .11a moves gets you past another bolt and onto 5.8ish climbing....but it ain't over. climbing past a few spaced bolts up to the spectacular roof. Pull through the roof on buckets and horizontals (.10c) and grunt onto the top of the cliff. Take a deep breadth and a look at your scraped up forearms...wasn't that fun!!
There are two ways to do this. You can start to the left (and avoid the 5.11a roof), which is the route "Old Boys" and goes at .10c. OR you can do the "Old Boys Club" direct start (a one or two move 11a), which I feel is a cleaner line with better rock and moves. To do it, make some moderate moves up to the roof (a good hold), and the first bolt. One or two .11a moves gets you past another bolt and onto 5.8ish climbing....but it ain't over. climbing past a few spaced bolts up to the spectacular roof. Pull through the roof on buckets and horizontals (.10c) and grunt onto the top of the cliff. Take a deep breadth and a look at your scraped up forearms...wasn't that fun!!
Location
From the Highlander Wall Main Area, follow the trail to the right skirting the base of the cliff. Squeeze between a bolder and the cliff and you will find the next obvious wall with a few bolted lines on it. Start at the lowest point of land at the base of the cliff, under the overlap with two bolts on it.
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