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Lil' Abner

5.8 R, Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 2.1 from 16 votes
FA: unknown
Connecticut > Eastern Highlands > Wolf Rock > Lower Tier

Description

Look for the thin crack/seam that starts behind a tree about 30 feet left from the right hand side of Lower Tier. Follow this crack, past some horizontal cracks to the top. The crux is about half way up when it feels like options for feet are thin and there are not many face holds.

The start of the climb is a bit hard to protect because the crack is so thin. Placement options are much better higher on the route. If you lead it, make sure to have a good spot. Top rope setup is easy on trees above with long webbing or static rope.

Protection

Trad gear to tree belay at top of route. Can also setup top rope.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Route as seen from base
[Hide Photo] Route as seen from base
Upper section of Lil' Abner (much easier than lower half).
[Hide Photo] Upper section of Lil' Abner (much easier than lower half).
Lil Abner crack.
[Hide Photo] Lil Abner crack.
Lil' Abner
[Hide Photo] Lil' Abner
Lil' Abner follows the crack that starts behind the tree in the middle of the picture.
[Hide Photo] Lil' Abner follows the crack that starts behind the tree in the middle of the picture.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brian
North Kingstown, RI
[Hide Comment] I don't know where you get the "R" from. You can reach up and place a green Camalot in a pod in the bottom of the crack. If you want to be very careful you can also place a purple one just to the left of the green. Once you clip those that gets you through the crux and then you can easily place bomber gear the rest of the way up. Dec 2, 2009
Pal Pocsi
Budapest, Hungary
5.8
[Hide Comment] Brian, I agree that this route probably isn't "R" for protection. I only did that because that's how the route is described in the Rock Climbing in Connecticut guidebook. I think a good spot for the thin seam at the start would be adequate and the protection higher up is fine. For the record, I haven't led this route, only top roped it once. Dec 5, 2009
javd von dauber
East Brookfield MA
 
[Hide Comment] I also disagree with the R rating. In addition to the horizontal crack cam placement, I was also able to get a micronut (Omega Pacific Wedgie #1) at the top of the thin vertical crack. It took some cleaning but was as secure as a micronut can be. The rest of the climb took decent gear.
Like other climbs here, some cracks that look good from the ground are not so good once you get to them. Sep 10, 2014