[Hide Comment] The guidebook warns of loose rock on Wick's Banana and, having followed it once a few years ago, I would agree.
It's worth noting that there's a second crack through the overhangs further right, in the neighborhood of the exposed step-across on Arch. This is probably the 5.9- crux of Billy Shears and has no loose rock at all. It can be done as a direct finish to the first pitch of Arch, leaving you very close to a fixed anchor, and I would say it's worth doing. (The guidebook gives an NR (not recommended) to Billy Shears, which might be true.)
Jul 26, 2010
[Hide Comment] Not just a lot of loose rock, but dirt, sands, saps and all the other junks. If more people climb this route, it would be a lot cleaner. There is a lose dinner plate size flake right below the roof so be extra careful. The piton looks rusty, clip at your own risk. The climb itself is decent, worth doing if you just want to get a last climb in while you are in the area.
Aug 7, 2010
[Hide Comment] There are a lot of oddly sketch rocks up there, but this is a heck of a lot of fun. There are lots of spots right above the roof for pro. The rest of the climb is messy. I would warn people below. If you freak out, you can exit stage right and go home with your tail between your legs. :)
Jun 9, 2012
[Hide Comment] I like this one a lot. Yes, careful of one or two flakes that look sketchy below the roof. But good pro in the roof before the crux move and immediately after above the lip too.
Sep 29, 2014
[Hide Comment] Definitely worth doing once. Has a fun roof move that took me a while to suss out but is not a hard move with proper beta. It was wet cold and damp in the cave with lots of loose blocks but relatively avoidable. You can get a no hands rest in there if you aren't too claustrophobic. Also can get in good gear above the crap pin if you stretch out a bit. Probably harder/sketchier if short.
Mar 7, 2017
Avg: 2.6 from 42
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Colorado
Fun route though. Mar 21, 2006
Gardiner
It's worth noting that there's a second crack through the overhangs further right, in the neighborhood of the exposed step-across on Arch. This is probably the 5.9- crux of Billy Shears and has no loose rock at all. It can be done as a direct finish to the first pitch of Arch, leaving you very close to a fixed anchor, and I would say it's worth doing. (The guidebook gives an NR (not recommended) to Billy Shears, which might be true.) Jul 26, 2010
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