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Routes in Upper Emancipation

Type: Boulder
FA: Joshua Dreher
Page Views: 740 total · 7/month
Shared By: Joshua Dreher on Nov 3, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Access Issue: Check NPS for Closures Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Get your friends together and bring all of the pads you have for this absolutely classic problem. Why? Because you guys are about to climb the best V3 in South Dakota and unfortunately it doesn't have the best landing.

Start on big sidepulls at five feet and get into the "CAVITY". Now get a big undercling and reach up to a sidepull up and left...reach with your right hand over the lip to a jug using intermediates if needed. I'd recommend going to the top and cleaning off the pine needles before attempting. Notice the perfect jug on top?..ya, you grab that.

Note: Please don't cut down the tree that lines the right side of this problem. It's very cool and doesn't interfere with the climbing.

Location: See the map and description in the pictures for the Emancipation Boulders

Protection [Suggest Change]

Lots of pads and a really good spot as this thing is a bit highball.

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Gary
  V3
Gary  
  V3
Great problem. Basically flash it and don't fall! Mar 28, 2010
Mike Madsen
Rapid City
 
Mike Madsen   Rapid City  
 
The landing built by Josh D. Is actually settled and really good now. I have done this problem many times with one pad and felt completely safe. It does help to be a solid V3 climber though. The holds coming out of the Cavity are pretty slopey and gritty. Don't just throw for them. The SDS adds full value also. Starts on the 2 obvious sidepull like crimps. Second move pulls into the Cavity. Just makes the grade solid. Mar 19, 2015
Seth Hogan
Frisco, Co
 
Seth Hogan   Frisco, Co
 
Nice work on making the landing but, for me, I can't imagine falling anywhere other than from the top and I think it would still be a very bad fall. Hit the pad and stumble off a small 6' cliff type of bad. The moves are obvious, not very thought provoking but cool. I'd take a good spotter over a pad here. Also, its farther back than I thought it would be, you have to go through a clearing to get to it. Jul 12, 2015
Super fun features on a great piece of rock, but it will feel more like V1 if you're over 6'3". The reach to the top jug becomes borderline casual if you've got the span for it. Aug 24, 2015

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