Beam Me Up Scotty
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, TR, 55 ft (17 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 1,307 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Gunkiemike on Nov 3, 2009 |
Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
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Description
On the west-facing wall left of Captain's Log. Follow the pleasant, obvious crack (5.6) to the overhang, then be prepared for long reaches and powerful climbing. Grading is tough because the moves are difficult to figure out. Done juuust right, this should be 11ish, but you can flame out trying to work out the sequence. In any event, the goal is to get to the big ledge on the arete to the right. From there you can either finish easily up the Captains Log face, or step left back onto the west face for a couple moderate moves to the scratchy pine at the route's top.
Protection
I'm only aware of TR action on this. There are a couple spots where gear MIGHT be placed, but both are funky and it would be difficult to fiddle in anything on lead. Still, if you're solid at the grade... The last solid gear is below the overhang and a fall from late in the crux would surely put you on the shelf at the base.
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