Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Peter Gallagher and Ed Webster, 1983.
Page Views: 2,257 total · 19/month
Shared By: charley graham on Nov 3, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A consistently interesting and rewarding tower route hidden from the more-crowded east side of the towers and featuring challenging sections of ringlocks and rattly fists at the cruxes on pitches 2 and 4. Ed Webster called this one of the hardest tower routes in the desert at the time. They climbed it over two days and rigged a tyrolean between the twin summits of King of Pain.

pitch 1: left facing corner: 5.9
pitch 2: switch cracks to the right, passing a pin to attain the ringlock-sized splitter: 5.11+
pitch 3: mostly wider. cave belay on mid-sized cams: 5.10
pitch 4: pull the wide roof-crack in the corner directly above the belay: 5.11+
pitch 5: continue to the notch between King of Pain and Bridger Jack Butte. The Butte is a safe bet to summit, the condition of the anchors on the north King of Pain are the subject of much speculation.

Location

On the west face of the north summit of the King of Pain tower. The prominent corner system and splitter thin-hand crack leading to the steep left leaning, left facing corner above. The easiest plan is to summit Bridger Jack Butte and rap Wildflower with double ropes.

Protection

A few of all sizes from fingers to old #4 camalots. The cruxes are short.

Photos

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-mn
-mn  
A good route for sure....the analog crack system of Vision Quest. Three #4 friends or equiv. Save one to back up the old bolts atop p.4 (or #4 camalot). The last pitch climbs out of the notch and face moves to the N. summit. Nov 9, 2009