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Routes in Poke-O-Moonshine

Bushido T,TR WI4+
Christmas Gully (Upper Area Start) T WI3
Dark Lord T WI6
Discord T WI4+
Hidden Pique WI4
Horn of the Ram T WI4-
Midlife Crisis T WI5+
Neurosis WI4-
Positive Thinking WI5-
Waterfall, The T WI4-5
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Type: Ice
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,811 total · 65/month
Shared By: Gantt524080 on Nov 3, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Access Issue: Follow trail from old state campground Details

Description [Edit]

Get a copy of Don Mellor's Blue Lines book for the best information.

The first pitch is steep but not quite vertical, belay from ledge on climbers right. Sometimes the first pitch does not reach the ground or is very thin, pay attention and be careful. The pitch two columns are the definite crux. The final pitch is less involved. Hike the ridge to climbers left to the descent gully or if it is late and no climbers are below rap the face using v-threads.

Location [Edit]

Located between Keeseville and Elizabethtown on Route 9. Routes are visible from HWY 87. If traveling the interstate, use the Willsboro exit to Route 9. Park on the side of the road at the Poke-O-Moonshine campground. The campground facilities are closed during the winter. Follow the trail on the right up through the woods towards the waterfall, one trail will continue straight up towards the waterfall area and the other trail will head right under the face. The climb is a few hundred yards down, there is a very large area at the bottom for safe belaying.

Protection [Edit]

Standard screws and draws for the area.
Derek Doucet
  WI5-
Derek Doucet  
  WI5-
An absolutely superb route! In typical mid season conditions, PT is usually on the easy end of grade 5, but when thin and boney, it can feel much harder! Jul 19, 2010
Colin Rickert
Ottawa, ON
WI5-
Colin Rickert   Ottawa, ON
WI5-
Ice is in thick on this route on the first pitch however the upper section is sketchy with an ill-formed column thats hollow for about 7-8 feet just before and somewhat during the technical crux but fortunately it thickens again after that. I did not lead but it felt sketchy enough on follow. We managed to almost do it 2 200 foot full pitches with a 60 foot pigmy slab pitch at the end that we simul-climbed Jan 23, 2011
Rui Ferreira
Boulder, CO
  WI5-
Rui Ferreira   Boulder, CO
  WI5-
I tried to do this in two pitches as well trying to stretch out the second pitch to the top, but ended up short in unconsolidated snow. Luckily my wife does not weight much and I kept a tight belay to prevent any significant shock to my seat belay. Feb 11, 2016
Kris Fiore
Burlington, VT
 
Kris Fiore   Burlington, VT  
 
P2 is in super bizarre, wind-blow conditions. I'd call it 5++ at the moment?

It looked like at least one party bailed within the last few days just before the "column" which is currently a two-tiered mostly unattached curtain system. Very fun but not for the faint of heart. Jan 29, 2018

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