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No Recess

5.12c, Sport, 45 ft (14 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 11 votes
FA: Wayne "Dr. Thrill" Crill
Texas > Austin Area > Reimers Ranch > Sex Canyon

Description

This route is pretty consistent from the time you leave the stalactite in the roof till you reach a jug by the last bolt.

Climb up on some scary tuffa features, some are cracked and hollow sounding. Make a big move to the lip and some bad holds. Work up onto the face with sharp holds and long moves. Take notice of the many rock scars and wonder if something is missing, based on the grade in the guide book (5.12c) it sure seems as if something is gone. Eventually gain a jug to the right of the last bolt. A few more moves on sharp holds takes one to the chain anchors.

Several of the bolts on this route are pretty badly rusted and water was dripping out of one of them, it did not really seem safe.

Location

This route is the furthest left of the middle group, just left of Super Cruiser and Learning to Crawl which both have fixed draws. Climbs through stalactites at the left end of the low overhang to start.

Protection

5 bolts and anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Moving through tufas
[Hide Photo] Moving through tufas
Phil making the clip before the business starts
[Hide Photo] Phil making the clip before the business starts

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

LeeAB Brinckerhoff
Austin, TX
  5.13a
[Hide Comment] Because of the issue with the bolts, the sharpness of the holds and the hollow nature of some of them it is possible that this route is deserving of the coveted bomb, but the movement is at least decent. Nov 3, 2009
Matthew NM
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] [rebuttal] Stayed off this route until today because of lee's glowing review (haha). Honestly, thought the moves were super cool on varied holds (pockets, slopers, pinches, underclings, a few stalactites and tufa blobs, and one really cool fin). The grade seemed accurate, maybe a touch hard but not enough to warrant 12d. And hell, it's Reimers, all the freaking bolts are rusty and need replacing... For a local, I think this is one of the better climbs at the grade and I thought deserves more traffic. I'll happily repeat this before the much more popular learning to crawl right next to it. Dec 19, 2010
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
Austin, TX
  5.13a
[Hide Comment] HA. I try to stay off of both, just harder to stay off of Learning since my wife wants to do it. Dec 21, 2010
Jesse Bruni
Austin
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] Strongly disagree with Lee's rating here. The holds are all there, albeit some of the moves are big. It's noticeably more difficult than Learning to Crawl, I think, but not quite as hard as 12d. This route deserves more traffic than it gets as it's quite a lot of fun. Jun 20, 2013
[Hide Comment] Just did a repeat and was reminded how great this route is. More bouldery than Learning to Crawl, but just as good. Dec 3, 2017
Matt Glass
Fort Worth, Tx
  5.12c PG13
[Hide Comment] Be careful of the tree; I took a glancing blow when I stepped off just past the crux Nov 4, 2020
[Hide Comment] new glue ins with mussy's up top. i felt it was well protected, with an extended 3rd bolt to clip from the knee bar. great route, cool moves, and fun drop/inturn knees for me. took a while to solve, but no show-stopper moves, and nicely sustained from the knee bar to the final high jug. 12c felt fair but not any harder for me. youtube.com/watch?v=pW9oOME… Aug 13, 2024