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Routes in 8 Mile Area

Black Sea aka The Dead Sea V8 7B
Dark Continent V7 7A+
Gurkha Knife V9 7C
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Jason Kehl
Page Views: 996 total, 10/month
Shared By: tcamillieri on Nov 2, 2009
Admins: Aeon Aki, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

This route begins on a small crimps for the left and right hands squeezing the arete. Climbs through the roof to a hemhock (crux) and a tricky and committing top out.

Beta: From the two crimps throw up right to a decent jug. Left two up on the arete and do a big move to a could sloper jug. Walk feet up and grab a crimp at the edge of the roof with the right. Heel hook the jug that you just had your hand on and cross with the right to an awesome multi-pocket pinch. Toe down on the edge of the arete (so that your biking) and go up left hand to a good undercling. Heel hook the sloper jug and bust out to the (good) hemhock hold.

Now there are two ways. One that involves hemhocking, and heelhooking in order to match the feature with a good pinch for the left, however this way it is hard to keep your feet. Taller folk bust up to the first of three crimps with the right hand and get it as a pinch, then heel hook and fall in.

From here work through a series of good crimps until you get the good crimp that sits just around the left arete (don't dab on the boulder beside). Match feet (very tenuous) and grab and undercling at shoulder height. Stand up and go big out left around the lip. Get your left foot on the good crimp (that you used to get to the undercling) and top out.

Three stars for awesome holds, good movement, aesthetics, minus one star for the landing.

Location

The boulder about 50 yards uphill from the road that holds a 10 foot roof and that looks like a Girkha Knife, or Africa.

Protection

3 pads and two spotters. One standing on the boulder to protect the committing top out and one down low to spot the crux.

Photos

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