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Routes in The Skillet

Angry Angler T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Black Eyes and Spam T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Camel Head, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chubby Pickle Arete S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Entropy T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Flying Zapato S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Green Eggs & Ham T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Span S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Laser Beams S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lightning Bug S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mado Skates S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nose Job S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
One For The Road T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sharp Edge S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silver Surfer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Snag S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Steroid Milkshake Mixer T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Technician, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Throwing For Jesus S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Thunder Fairy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jeff Jackson
Page Views: 132 total, 1/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Nov 2, 2009
Admins: Jason Smith, Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the first pitch via stemming up the corner and good incut holds. This pitch checks in at 5.10c and has its own anchor at the ledge. This is an enjoyable pitch in its own right.

Above the anchor of that first pitch is a gem of a face climb, with a pronounced crux at the 2nd or 3rd bolt, checking in at 5.11b. Finish with great climbing on the arete and some huge bucket hauling to the upper anchor. The bolts are generously spaced out up high and it's possible to bring some small to medium sized cams but it's also pretty easy terrain.

If you do this climb with one rope, tie a knot in the end of the rope and have some slings handy, because it's a stretch with a 70 meter rope to get down and will entail belayer and climber going up to the first bolt to make it happen.

Location

On the left side of the Skillet is a nose feature. On the right side of that nose is Nose Job, a 10b climbing an open corner. On the left side of that nose is this route, The Camel head, climbing another corner feature, although this corner is more of a 90 degree corner, on darker rock.

Protection

13 bolts according to the book but seems like more. Long slings helpful when linking the two pitches.

Photos

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Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
At the beginning of the second pitch there are several holds marked with an "x" including one large flake that is seriously loose but didn't have an "x" on it before yesterday. It has an "x" now but be careful climbing through this section. Nov 2, 2009