Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Sykes
Page Views: 3,535 total · 30/month
Shared By: BALDY on Nov 2, 2009
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


30 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

One of the best 5.8s in the notch. If it's your first time at this crag, you'll probably look up at this route and say "5.8?? AND good pro??" This route is rather steep and exposed, but with good protection that you cannot always see from below. Take special care with route finding, as there is some loose rock.
From the anchor, climb up and left to the first of two bolts on the face. After the second bolt, climb fairly directly up the face (some route finding necessary) past a pin, and the final two bolts towards the top of the climb.
There is no real "crux," just consistent 5.8 face climbing. The route ends at the top of The Flatiron, on a huge ledge with a two bolt anchor and commanding views of the notch.

Location

From the gully below the cliff, scramble up 4th class terrain to the right, on top of the exposed outcrop (you may want to short pitch this section if your second isn't totally solid). Look for a single bolt next to a crack (perfect for a #2 camelot), this is your anchor and the true start of the climb.

Protection

4 Bolts and a pin help keep you on route, with small gear in between (i.e. small aliens and stoppers). Your won't need anything bigger than a .75 camalot.

Photos