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Routes in The Flatiron

Little Porky T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Other White Meat Arete , The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Puckered Pork T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Salt Packed Pig Sack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Sykes
Page Views: 3,071 total · 31/month
Shared By: BALDY on Nov 2, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

One of the best 5.8s in the notch. If it's your first time at this crag, you'll probably look up at this route and say "5.8?? AND good pro??" This route is rather steep and exposed, but with good protection that you cannot always see from below. Take special care with route finding, as there is some loose rock.
From the anchor, climb up and left to the first of two bolts on the face. After the second bolt, climb fairly directly up the face (some route finding necessary) past a pin, and the final two bolts towards the top of the climb.
There is no real "crux," just consistent 5.8 face climbing. The route ends at the top of The Flatiron, on a huge ledge with a two bolt anchor and commanding views of the notch.

Location

From the gully below the cliff, scramble up 4th class terrain to the right, on top of the exposed outcrop (you may want to short pitch this section if your second isn't totally solid). Look for a single bolt next to a crack (perfect for a #2 camelot), this is your anchor and the true start of the climb.

Protection

4 Bolts and a pin help keep you on route, with small gear in between (i.e. small aliens and stoppers). Your won't need anything bigger than a .75 camalot.

Photos

Northeast Alpine Start
Conway, New Hampshire
Northeast Alpine Start   Conway, New Hampshire
Oh, and I've always wondered about exploring the ridge directly above the finish to Salt Packed... has anyone ever connected it all the way over the Long Wall to the scree gully right of Eaglet? Oct 3, 2016
Northeast Alpine Start
Conway, New Hampshire
Northeast Alpine Start   Conway, New Hampshire
I've climbed this and the neighboring Route 66 a half dozen times or so. This might be my favorite 5.8 pitch in NH. For a great full day up here I recommend Route 66 first, then Salt Packed, then rap off the south side of the Flatiron. CAUTION, lots of loose blocks below the bottom belay spot, but you can get down in some brush that allows a faster connection with the Eaglet to finish your day. Oct 3, 2016
Alec Woolley
Nottingham, NH
 
Alec Woolley   Nottingham, NH
 
You do top out over what the picture shows of the flatiron. The rings will be on a small wall in front of you. Can't say for certain about a single rope getting you back down but if it does it would only be to the normal belay anchor of one bolt and some gear. This spot itself is on adventurous 4th class terrain that you may or may not feel comfortable unroped on. Getting down from this spot definitely will feel sketchier than going up too. Two ropes to rappel is the best choice, gets you down safely and below this belay station without questionable concerns.

Aside from that I didn't run into any of the loose rock issues others talked about for this route. This route is a blast and should be enjoyed by anyone who visits the area. Jul 11, 2014
Dan Friedman
Boulder, CO
Dan Friedman   Boulder, CO
Do you top this out? Saw the comment on needing 2 ropes to rap, and if it is 120 feet you certainly can't lower with a 60m.. thinking about heading up this weekend and wanted to be sure - thanks! Jul 10, 2014
I dont think i would call it "good gear" but "adequate" comes to mind, an excellent alpine single pitch, unreal views at the top. Nov 6, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i was a little surprised at how much loose rock was on this, not bad by cannon standards but not really safe either... be careful of a huge loose flake on the right in the middle of the climb and many other small holds that threatened to pop off...
i really enjoyed this climb but i dont think it lives up to the hype... i still gave it 3 stars for its position, movement and adventure, if the rock was better it would get full credit for sure... Jul 20, 2011
Adam Wilcox
Candia, NH
  5.8
Adam Wilcox   Candia, NH
  5.8
Super fun sustained face climbing. Though a little runout, a fall would be clean as there are no ledges to hit. One nut placement 2/3rds of the way up was a comforting supplement to the fixed gear.

Two ropes needed for rap. Oct 9, 2010
John Halupowski
Intervale, N.H.
  5.8
John Halupowski   Intervale, N.H.
  5.8
A NH must do if you like 5.8 face. Fun and steep, just be confident at that grade. Great view. Apr 11, 2010