Type: Trad, 750 ft (227 m), 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jeff Mayhew, Chuck Lipinski, Mike Ritchey
Page Views: 3,494 total · 20/month
Shared By: Daniel Cohn on Nov 2, 2009
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

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Description Suggest change

Elephantiasis is a committing back country route. You will encounter loose rock, slippery grass at belay-stations, and run out climbing so make sure you are climbing strong at the grade before getting on this route. That said, this climb provides a great day of adventure.

The description in Bob Kerry's guide will get you up the route, but it was slightly off in one or two spots. I will just add information to supplement his description and topo.


1. Follow Kerry's description. There is s single bolt on top of the boulder on the right. I backed this up with a small cam. 5.8+

2. Follow Kerry's description. The finger mentioned is pretty obvious. You must build an anchor at the end of this pitch. 5.9-

3. Follow Kerry's description. His topo is a little off. It appears that you start trending left immediately after the third bolt. In fact you should continue straight up for a while. When you are about 2/3 of the way up the pitch, the triangular rock near the belay station will become obvious. Climb up to the rock using the most obvious path. There is a single bolt at the station that can be backed up. 5.10-

4. Follow Kerry's description. The crux of the route is the traverse at the beginning of the pitch. After clipping the bolt and the piton, you can place one more micro before committing. After turning the corner, there is a nice stance. Place a piece as high as possible because there is another committing more turning back around the corner and up to the bolt. It is important to have a lot of slings for this pitch to reduce drag. There are two bolts at the belay station. 5.10

5. Follow Kerry's description. This pitch has some really fun climbing on edges near the cruxes. The rock is very good quality too. There are two bolts at the belay station. 5.10

6. Follow a couple of bolts over steep face until the angle eases off. Go up and slightly right over chicken heads. Eventually you will see a bolt and a slung chicken-head. You can walk to the top from here. 5.9+

Descent: See the description for B Cubed.

Location Suggest change

Start almost directly in the middle of Elephant Dome. There is a left-facing ramp that turns into a roof. Start on the ramp. At the end of the first pitch, there are two giant boulders on a ledge. The first pitch ends on the one on the right.

Protection Suggest change

12 or so draws, most of which are extend-able, nuts, double set of cams to #1 camalot. Micros are useful. I could have easily left the #2 and #3 at home.