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Routes in Flapping.../Nuclear arms area

Blowin' In The Wind (aka Flailing in the breeze) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Diamond Dogs T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Digital Disco T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Flappin' In the Breeze T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nuclear Arms T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slab Accurate T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sugaree T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Andy Kluge, Bruce Burgess - 1998
Page Views: 6,157 total, 62/month
Shared By: gneiss pirate on Nov 1, 2009
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Three pitches of excellent Rumbling Bald face climbing.

P1> Climb up the left side of the giant flake or romp up the wide gash that forms the right side of the feature. Move left and climb up to the first bolt. Trend left on easier ground aiming for a double bolt belay. There are slight variations on this pitch making it feel easier or harder.
100 ft.

P2> Climb straight up to a bolt. Move left then up and traverse right. Climb up and left following a seam which changes into a nice crack/left facing feature(amazing). Follow this to another double bolt belay.
100 ft.

P3> Climb straight up discontinuous features aiming for a bolt. Move left then climb straight up to a right facing flake/roof. Rail right on great holds(steep) with great exposure. Gain a stance and step up to another double bolt belay.
90 ft.

Note: The second rap takes every bit of a single 60m rope. Watch your ends!

Also be sure and take some brass, it might save your a**.




Location

Up the hill and left of Southern Boys. Starts on a pedastel beneath a huge flake, pasted to the wall.

Protection

bolts, nuts, tricams, tcu's, camalots to red.

Photos

Dustin Stephens
  5.10a PG13
Dustin Stephens  
  5.10a PG13
Spectacular climbing on this one Mar 8, 2015
You can use a single 60 to rap, but you need every inch of it. Don't try it if you've chopped anything off one or both of your ends. Also, when it says to go left, up, and right after the first bolt on P2, you have to go _way_ right, past the bushy ledge to get to a crucial horizontal (which we missed). Otherwise the runout is pretty horrible, even for NC. Wish we'd had brass offsets. Nov 5, 2013
2 sets of small nuts will help with peace of mind on the second pitch. Excellent climb. Jan 1, 2012
zFoy Foy
Asheville, NC
zFoy Foy   Asheville, NC
The lower pitches go stiff at 5.9+, especially given the lack of bolts/gear/placements. Heady for sure, but a fun trip. Sep 16, 2010
Jeff Mekolites
ATL GA
 
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
 
Great route with a variety of climbing and a spectacular setting. Pitch 3 is Awesome. Mar 10, 2010