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Routes in Clogwyn y Tarw (Gribin Facet)

Herford's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monolith Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Rocking Chair T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 140 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Abraham brothers 1905
Page Views: 380 total, 4/month
Shared By: Rob Davies UK on Nov 1, 2009
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

P1: 30' Tunnel under the Monolith.
P2: 30' 5.5 Climb a very polished and awkward groove to a stance beside the upper wide crack.
P3: 80' Easy if you can fit inside, impossible if you can't. Strip down, breathe out and sidle into the crack sideways for about 15' (try lying down and going in horizontally if all else fails) until it widens sufficiently to start chimneying upwards towards daylight. Then climb slabs to the top.
P3a: 80' 5.6 ("De Selincourt's variation"). If the crack is unattractive, swing out onto the R wall, then follow cracks and slabs to the top.
P3b: 80'. On the first ascent in 1905 the Abrahams climbed the crack on the outside! This is a hard offwidth problem that looks about 5.10.

Location

At the low point of the centre of the cliff a huge block (the Monolith) has slumped down. The climb start on the R side of this. Can be done in a single pitch but much more fun when done in 3 pitches to observe the struggles close up.

Protection

Small rack but protection is virtually irrelevant for the crux. Gear only gets in the way.

Photos

Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Did 3a once - couldn't get inside the chimney, and I was pretty slim in those days too. Jan 25, 2010