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Routes in Barrio de los Gitanos

El Rey del Sofa S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Le Bio de 5h S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Les Chacales S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Lola L1 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 175 total, 2/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Oct 30, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay

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Description

Very cool climbing on thin tuffa fins and pockets. Easy start to a bouldery crux then pumpy climbing on good holds with long reaches to the anchors. On the red-point you will wish the anchors were lower, they are a bit higher than they seem like they should be.

Climb easily up past 4 bolts to a rest then execute the crux moving right around the arete to another rest. Move through technical moves to a jug on the arete. Make a powerful move up then physical climbing out left then up and back right onto the obvious thin fin. Move up this to a spike hanging out of the roof. Rock hard right to jugs on the face. Contemplate why the anchor is not just to your left while you rest. Make about 4 or 5 moves up the face on sharp edges to the anchors.

Fun movement, both physical and technical in spots. While locals claim that this is a bouldery route it still packs quite a pump. Many fun holds and a nice runout to the anchors.

Location

This route start off of the ledge that traverses out right onto the wall. It climbs the face up to a blunt arete feature and up to a small roof which is passed on the right.

Protection

10 bolts or so to a bolted anchor.

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