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[Redacted]

5.10c, Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.2 from 33 votes
FA: Brad Watson (TR) 11/24/91 of Bruce Morris RT
California > San Francisco B… > S Bay Area > Castle Rock Area > Indian Rock
Warning Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. DetailsDrop down

Description

An interesting name for an interesting route.

Start with an intriguing 5.10ish slab move that is well protected by a bolt (this is supposed to be the crux...). After a brief crack section (stoppers useful), you reach the base of the intimidating chimney. You can skip this first part by scrambling up to the base of the chimney from the right.

The chimney is reportedly 5.8 if you are good at these types of "ooze moves". It felt hard to me. Pro is tricky but it's all there.

Location

On the downhill side of Indian Rock, towards the right side. Find the obvious chimney and look hard for the lone bolt on a slabby face.

Protection

Set of cams to 3 inches. Stoppers and small cams helpful.
2-bolt anchor

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

steple
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] I placed a .3", a 1", an orange link cam, and a 2", although another 1" would have been better. I have never seen a better spot for a link cam. you can probably place a 5" or 6" near the top for fun. Sep 5, 2012
Jacob Kantor
Asheville, NC
[Hide Comment] Doing the first moves without using the tree for aid is freaking hard! With the tree its 5.9, without it feels like solid 5.11. Feb 4, 2019
Craig Yeomans
ky
 
[Hide Comment] The route was called Cum Slot. There is nothing offensive about that Nov 17, 2020
Ian Gunn
Los Angeles, CA
[Hide Comment] haha silly name May 30, 2023