Type: Trad, 121 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,315 total · 12/month
Shared By: Carlos Carnitas on Oct 28, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This unknown OW should be on the list of "must do" wide cracks in the creek! super splitter on black rock with crisp edges. my knee fit great most of the way. there is a small bulge 1/3 of the way up. the cruxes are the slight flare down low and when it pinches down to old 4 camalots up high. ends with hands and fingers! Awesome!

Location

the route is 15-20 ft right of "electric". it is the splitter that makes you say "damn!"

Protection

old camalots .3,(2)2,3.5,(2-3)4, (at least! 3)4.5,
an old 5 will fit but not necessary.
new 6 will fit in if you jam it in or; go in up high.
2 new 1/2 inch bolts with chains that are under the small roof.
you need a seventy meter rope!

Photos

Monty
Golden, CO
  5.11
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.11
This route is awesome, and may be one of the best unknown routes I've done in the creek.
I took (all BD's) 1 ea .3, #1, #2; (2)#4, (3)#4.5, (2)New #5's and (2)Old #5. I found the old(green) 5 to be key as a new 5 is tipped and #6 will not fit. Nov 30, 2012