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Routes in Middle Earth

Fear and Loathing in Choss Vegas T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Taste of Venom T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Where Egos Dare T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Kyle Copeland, Andy Pitas, Wendy Pitas, 1989
Page Views: 1,105 total, 11/month
Shared By: Greg D on Oct 27, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

An excellent route away from the crowds of Wall Street, yet still on Potash Road. This route climbs a ramp that quickly steepens to vertical, then slightly overhanging as the crack size narrows from 3 inches to 1/2 an inch. The rock is a bit soft with a hollow flake in the beginning (easy climbing). But, turns to beautiful black varnished wingate sandstone as the difficulty increases.

Location

Located on Potash Road several hundred feet down river of mile marker 7, few hundred feet down river of a "Falling Rock" sign. The route climbs the right side of a pillar (see photo). There is a huge, deep chimney 60 feet left of this climb. This route faces due south.

Protection

Cams from 1/2 inch to 3 inches. Two bolt anchor.

Photos

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