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5.11c/d R, Trad, Sport, 95 ft,
Avg: 3.6 from 5 votes
FA: Doug Reed
N Carolina > Rumbling Bald > Test Pilots Buttress
This mega-classic is another Doug Reed ground-up testpiece.
Climb amazing and crimpy face past 3 bolts and a gear placement to an intermediate anchor and lower off. 5.11 a/b.
Or, continue up and right for the technical and well protected crux move. Move slightly right then fire straight up (5.9 R) to the top. Belay off a very healthy juniper tree.
Located behind the Test Pilots Buttress, on the opposite wall, in the shady gulley. It gets late afternoon sun.
There are two lines here. Focus starts right of the tree.
4 bolts, small to medium camalots up to gold. Extra slings to rig an anchor off a bomber old Juniper tree.
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Mary at the technical arete start
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So if you blow the mantle move and your belay isn't on point you can hit a rather thick but flexible tree branch on the way down. Great route! Fantastic crimping with an appropriate amount of spice.
Dec 22, 2014