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Routes in The Archway

Crazy Hot S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gruntfest S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Heartbeat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kee Dak S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kee Gai S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Sandbag S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tree Surgeon, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Wee Changrua and Elke Schmitz, 2/2003
Page Views: 204 total, 2/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 27, 2009
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. Details

Description

An OK climb, but obviously bolted from the best stances, not to protect the hardest climbing the best. This is not a good warm-up or beginner climb and merits some caution. You will want to be sure to flash this one or a ledge fall may result.

Location

This is the right most route of the South facing part of the Archway and is the furthest of the 4 adjacent routes from the rebar ladder. It can be started on the low angle section of Gruntfest past 3 threads on longer slings, or can start independently out to the right in its own corner.

Protection

Either 3 thread and 3 bolts or 4 threads and 3 bolts, both to a 2 bolt anchor shared with Gruntfest, all depending on how it is done. Take a few longer slings.
Also, beware that the name translates to 'Chicken Shit' probably due to the rather disconcerting fall potential despite being a sport climb. THis is perhaps the most poorly bolted climb on the wall, earning it the reputation in the local guidebook as being 'A 6a for the 6c leader.'

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