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Routes in Crazy Horse Buttress

(Mai Roo Reuang) I Have No Idea!!! S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
(Tood Ma) The Horse's Ass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
A Horse With No Name S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Wild Ride on a Crazy Horse S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Ahya! S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Baby Rock S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bamboo Finders S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Beehouse, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blood, Love and Steel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dangeours Joy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ding Dong S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dont Look a Gift Horse in the Mouth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Free the Spirit S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Headhunters S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Horse Knows the Wall, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Into the Sun S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It's Got To Be Funky S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Just Give me More S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Magic Drop S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Muppet Show, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Partners (left) aka Steve Gumaer and Co,. S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Partners (right) aka Steve Gumaer and Co., S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reindeer Request S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rope and Rock S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thai Who Loved Me, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Kraisak Boonthip, 9/1998
Page Views: 430 total, 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 27, 2009
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. Details

Description

A fun route with powerful climbing. The crux is down low where the climbing is more sideways than vertical. This may feel easier than graded to the master of traverses, but may be harder to those not willing to pull down hard and move fast. The grade is somewhere between 11b and 11d and bound to feel quite subjective.
Get s tick clip or a spot and clip the first bolt, heading up and right through horizontal slashes in the rock. The holds are not huge, but they are quite adequate. At the 3rd slash clip the second bolt and head directly up past a reachy crux to a very positive jug and another clip. Work out technical feet to get established above the third bolt, then cruise on up on easier but fun terrain to a 2 bolt anchor. This is one of the most interesting climbs in the wall and while not the best on its own merit, will feel like a break from the other routes there, which are more similar in character.

Location

About 1/2 way across the wall from left to right there is a bolted line with a series of 3 horizontal slashes between the first and second bolts, this is The Beehouse (11c). Just to the right is the shallow and obtuse bolted dihedral, Blood Love and Steel (11b).

Protection

A dozen bolts to an 2 bolt and chain anchor.

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